VENTING CAN BE HARMFUL TO YOUR HEALTH…
I just got around to reading the Swift letter for September. There is something about reading about people and their flying experiences with the Swift that brings back fond memories. Reminiscing about my Swift got me thinking about my airplane and it’s unique fuel tank vent system design. Not knowing what has transpired in the way of modifications to the Swifts innards over the past 35 years perhaps I should pass this one on just in case it relates to someone else’s airplane.
I think the serial number on Swift N90305 was #314, a GC-1A, but modified by the addition of a larger engine to a GC-1B. Shortly after purchasing the airplane in 1953, I noticed that on a hot day, with full fuel tanks, any movement of the airplane on the ground could cause fuel to siphon through the vent system and drain from the fuselage bottom vent. The only way the siphon could be broken was to raise the tail of the airplane about 4 feet from the ground for several seconds until the flow stopped. I can assure you that this jerk and press operation was a real crowd pleaser at the airport on a Sunday afternoon.
After researching the vent problem I found that there were several venting system designs employed through the build of the Swift. Each change corrected one problem and created another, all in an attempt to get the fuel gauge to read correctly. The one on my airplane, N90305, was supposed to be one of the better modifications made to the system. This information was provided by Temco and the FAA.
The reason that I have provided the above thumbnail information is to create the environment for explaining an incident that could have resulted in what could have been the loss of my airplane. At the time I was working in Florida and keeping 90305 hangared at the New Smyrna Beach Airport. After doing a walk around and pull and jiggle on the airplane I pushed it to the fuel pit and topped off the tanks. It was a beautiful Saturday morning and I intended to do a little sight seeing along the St. Johns River. Before takeoff I turned on my radio and checked it’s operation with the airport office. As #305 lifted into the air I turned the radio off since I expected no contacts on a local flight and traffic control didn’t exist in those parts. I turned South towards Cocoa Florida but after 20 minutes or so in the hot sun I headed back to the airport. I had glanced at the fuel gauge several times but since I was cruising at reduced power the continued indication of a full tank didn’t seem abnormal. However, when I taxied up to the fuel pump the airport operator met me, mentioned something about smoke and began to inspect the underside of #305 explaining that I had trailed a white plume from under the airplane as I left the ground and continued to do so until it disappeared from sight.
He said that he had tried to call me on the radio but I didn’t respond. Right then I knew why the fuel gauge had indicated full for so long. A quick look at the fuel gauge indicated just about empty. I calculated that when I landed I had about 10 minutes of flying time left before the engine quit. I figured that I had pumped about 18 gal. of gasoline overboard through the vent system during my 20 minute flight. After a close inspection of the vent system I discovered that muddobbers (wasps) had plugged the opening to the vent located just aft of the rear cabin bulkhead. What appeared to have happened when this vent was the bumping on takeoff had started the siphon through the vent line that is located at the top of the fuel gauge standpipe. This process kept the fuel at the top of the standpipe along with the float that drives the fuel gauge. Of course the reading always indicated at full. The vent line extension through the top of the airplane normally would have prevented the siphon to start, but unfortunately it was plugged.
The next time that #305 went into the air all vent openings were covered with a copper screen guard.
I have no knowledge of any bulletins that were issued about this problem even though I reported it to the FAA at the time. I also have no way to identify the specific system design incorporated in #314 but I suggest that anyone that has the fuel siphon problem, if it hasn’t been fixed by now, add a few screens to the vent openings. Something like this could ruin your day. — Larry Simms (larrys@abs.net)
CLEANING FUEL STRAINER… (4499)
From: Bob Runge <ejectr@javanet.com>
Subject: Re: Strainer
My fuel strainer seems to be installed before the fuel shut off valve in the cockpit. Therefore, if I want to clean the strainer, I have to empty the tanks or get deluged with fuel. Is there any other way I could stop the fuel flow to the strainer so I can clean it without emptying the tanks first?
Bob: Yup, thats the way they were built! Many guys have gotten some aluminum 3/8″ tubing (5052 might work best) and with a tubing bender have rearranged the plumbing so they could shut off the fuel, then clean the screen. You also need an aircraft flaring tool (37 1/2 degree) Many are so neatly done it looks like factory. Myself, on the Swift I have now its all stock, so I have to drain the tanks. — Jim
PS When I mentioned 5052 I was probably remembering replumbing pitot/static lines on a B-707. They were 5052 and bent all right, but were not flared. They used a flareless sleeve and “B” nuts. 5052 might be too hard to get a good flare and dead soft aluminum tubing might be what to use.
USABLE FUEL…
Subject: Re: Usable Fuel
From: Dennis Mee <jmmee@nh.ultranet.com>
I have a couple of questions for you, the easy one first: The type certificate shows a fuel capacity of 27.8 gal, and the factory wt & bal shows 156 lbs, (26 gal) so I assume there is 1.8 gal unusable fuel in the Swift, is that correct?
Dennis,
The actual full fuel figure varies a little – from tanks empty to full I’ve seen 27.8 to 28.3 gallons register on the pumps, and others have noted wider variations. I suppose Globe wanted a round figure that was reasonably close. There may be a gallon or so unusable in the 3 point attitude, but level I think it can all be used. I have heard of guys burning their tanks dry, and landing on the aux. – not me! Yes, officially, there is 1.8 gal of unusable fuel. I use 26 gal capacity on a w&b when its to my advantage to show a lesser weight. (all the time in a Swift!) — Jim
LEAKING FUEL DRAIN VALVES…
Subject: Re: Fuel drain valves
From: Dennis Mee <jmmee@nh.ultranet.com>
Both of my fuel drain valves are leaking. The sump drain leaks around the valve handle when turned on but slowly stops when turned off, perhaps a worn shaft. The strainer drain leaks through the valve and continues to drip when turned off, perhaps a bad seal. Joe doesn’t have of these twist type drain valves, I assumed they are original, any ideas on repair or replacement? I remember seeing these type drain valves on other airplanes but can’t remember which one. My fuel selector valve is leaking through from the aux to the main tanks and does not shut off completely, I’ve been trying to get a replacement valve from Merlyn for some time but can’t wait any longer, I’ll have to get something to replace it elsewhere. Since I have to drain the system I’d like to fix them all at the same time.
Dennis:
Boy, its been a long time, but I think I have replaced an “O” ring in those drain valves Try having a 1/8″ pipe plug handy, remove the leaky valve and temporarily install the pipe plug before you lose too much gas. I think I had it down where I only lost about a cupful. Compare the Merlyn valve to standard brass gas valves at your local hardware store or maybe you’ll have to go to the gas company. (Natural Gas) Maybe you can find a replacement. Better yet, maybe you can dismantle the one you have and either lap the leaking parts or apply “fuelube” – which will make it easier to operate also. Fuelube is a paste type lubricant for fuel valves. It is available from Aircraft Spruce or any of the major aircraft suppliers. — Jim
FUEL STRAINER REMOVAL… (8499)
From: Dick Aaron <raaron@pica.army.mil>
Dear Jim,
I’m writing to thank you for saving me untold grief and also preserving my sanity. While not having written before, I’ve been an avid follower of your contributions to the Swift Internet Newsletter and have learned, and re-learned, many useful tips. In doing the annual on 2405B, I encountered what I thought was a non-functioning fuel shut-off valve in the course of cleaning the fuel strainer. After draining the tanks and assessing what was involved in removing the valve I went home and had some ice cream to calm down.
In the spirit of monitoring the frequency, I thought that I better check the record first. Lo and behold, there in the archives was your letter to Bob Runge about the fuel strainer being before the valve. Who’d have thunk such a thing was possible?! Why did they do that? It wasn’t that way on my other Swift. I discovered this a day or so before I was planning to bite the bullet and take a day off from work to take the valve out. I figured a 40% disassembly of the Swift should do it. Can you imagine what would have happened to me if I did this and then discovered that it was the plumbing???!!!!!!!! By the way, is there any reason that the strainer assembly can’t be moved back about 3″ to make it easier to service? Thanks again, and if you’re ever near this part of New Jersey I’ll buy you some ice cream. — Dick Aaron N80625, 2405B
Richard,
No, many Swifts have this done so cleanly that it looks like a factory installation. The secret is to use a tubing bender and make it look professional, it certainly is an improvement to be able the shut off the fuel and remove the strainer. — Jim
BELLY TANKS AND GC… (9499)
I have installed belly tanks, but the STC has no reference to weight and balance. I measured the centroid of the belly tanks at 51.5″. the centroid for the wing tanks is 47″. the mathematical result is 48.1″. I have a 15# ballast in the tail. I acquired a 9.5# globe ballast and figured the aft Shift would allow me to remove the 5.5#. My max wt(1970#) most aft cg is 33.4, and the empty wt cg is 29.8. Am I playing with fire here or doing the right thing? John Ewing N80913 <jonwewing@cs.com>
(Editor’s note: Jim is still sans computer as I write this so we’ll have Don pinch-hit one more time…)
From: Don Bartholomew <spectro@nanosecond.com>
Organization: The Aeroplane Factory
To check the numbers, I need the empty weight that corresponds with the 29.8″ location. Also, does this number include full or empty oil, and how much oil? I also need either the empty weight and arm with the tanks installed, or the weight of the tanks and hardware to figure the new empty weight. This recommendation is based on experience: Drain the useable fuel, fill the oil, and weight the airplane. While it is level, drop plumb bobs and measure the ACTUAL arms from the firewall to the center of the main axles and from the axles to the centerline of the tail weighing point (usually the centerline of the tail wheel axle). These numbers vary between aircraft and the tail arm IS NOT what was used by the factory computations. The factory typically used 145.56″ and measuring to the tail wheel axle measures around 159.5″. This makes a big difference in computations! With this information, calculate the cg and try loaded conditions to see where you are. Run calculations with less tail weight and see how things are. Use your actual personal weight rather than the FAA “standard” person (170″). If you get me the scale weights and arms, I can run some examples for you. — Don and Helo
ASSISTANT ANSWER MAN DON BARTHOLOMEW GETS A QUESTION REGARDING PAST FUEL PUMP PROBLEM EMAILS… (10199)
From: Richard Aaron <raaron@pica.army.mil>
To: Don Bartholomew <spectro@nanosecond.com>
Don,
I’ve just read the e-mails regarding Ed Lloyd’s fuel pump problem and feel that there may be some confusion over the terms “manual pump” (wobble pump?), “mechanical pump”, “engine driven pump” and “electric pump”. Also, I did not quite follow the proper assembly sequence for the gascolator. Do you know where I might find a diagram? Mine has a top gasket, a bottom gasket, a cylindrical screen, but NO flat screen. — Dick
Dick,
I don’t know of a diagram of the gascolator. The flat screen is a flat washer shaped affair. The round screen slides through the hole in the “washer”. Assembly: Slide the flat screen “washer” over the round screen. Slide the round screen onto the top gascolator housing making sure the 3/8″ diameter tube protrudes through the bottom of the round screen. Install the top gaskets in the top and bottom housing. Slide the round body of the gascolator in place then install the bottom cover. Safety the bolt after it is tightened. Check for leaks. The manual pump that can have a loose top is the engine driven fuel pump. One bolt holds the top cover on and in time, the gasket can shrink causing a suction leak. — Don and Helo
SPEAKING OF FUEL PUMPS, MONTY SAYS THE RECENT FUEL PUMP AIRWORTHINESS DIRECTIVE DOES NOT APPLY IN OUR CASES… (10199)
I was reading the (Sept. 22 AOL) chat. AD 81-07-06 (fuel pump) does not apply to a C-145/0-300. More trouble has been had by leaking fuel pumps after disassembly than trouble found. The Ercoupe that prompted the AD had not flown in about 7 years. If you run the engine regularly, you will not get the corrosion in the fuel pump (that the Ercoupe did). If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it! — Jim
…TO WHICH SWIFTER EDDIE “FAA” SHIELDS REPLYS…
Jim,
Thanks for the info on the fuel pump… I found a place anyway to buy the fuel pump top cover gasket. Its p/n is very hard to find. p/n AF-6160 Found at Aero Accessories Inc in Gibsonville, NC. They also rebuild the pumps. phone # 1-800-822-3200 Price is $3.90 each for the gaskets (cork). I know thats a little high but it is an approved pma part. You know I have to stick to that due to my position. Hope this helps somebody ifn they need the info. — Eddie
IT’S BEST TO “VENT” YOUR FRUSTRATIONS BEFORE YOU “SPILL OVER”… (11199)
From: Eddie Shields <VSWIFT@aol.com>
Subject: Re: vent system
Hey guys,
I need help. I just flew my swift after the annual and now have a new problem. I was told by several people to turn the vent tube that is on top of the turtle deck around so it will give some pressure to the fuel tanks. Well, now the float indicator reads empty when I get into flight. I got quite a scare over these here mountains today cause I knew I had fuel but you really don’t have a warm and fuzzy felling when the gage reads empty. Had to land at a small strip and get auto fuel to get to another airport. Just to make sure. The vent tube on the right wing stub also now sprays fuel out where before it didn’t. I didn’t use anymore fuel than normal. Just very concerned. Have any clues why this does this and is there a cure? Thanks.
Eddie,
I presume you are talking about N80615. Uh, I’m getting the idea you have not redone the vent system per the latest service bulletin. The Swift Museum Foundation came out with a revision just a couple of years ago. They can furnish a copy, or maybe I have one here someplace. I don’t even refer to it anymore, simply put, eliminate the vent on the upper rh. centersection, “T” a 3/8″ line from both tanks to a single 3/8″ vent line running up behind the cockpit and face the opening forward. You cannot simply turn the opening forward! As you found out fuel will vent overboard from the centersection vent and the gas gauge won’t read right! To do the job you need to pull the wings, then run a 3/8″ tube from an AN 822-6D outboard, between the wing attach fittings, then just forward of the spar web, into the cabin, “T”ing at the left sidewall. Look at N2403B – that is a late Temco and is pretty much the way you want to do it. The factory ran the tube fwd. and drilled a hole in the spar web, but its easier to just go outboard around the end of the spar. My gas gauge on N2334B and N2431B with that vent system are very accurate, but I never put much faith in any aircraft fuel gauge. — Jim
ARE FUEL TANKS REALLY MADE OF “UNOBTANIUM”??? (11599)
Subject: Re: GTS Internet Update#4
From: Terry Straker <TASGuitar@aol.com>
Hi guys!
I have a problem/question for Monty about my Swift N31W. I have noticed small fuel stains on the underside of the left wing root area for a few weeks. I was really hoping they were just from fuel spills during refueling, mostly because I didn’t want to have to do what is now inevitable.
I have been unable to go to the airport for the last 4 weeks, and when I went up Sunday, the 8 gallons of fuel that should have been in the tank weren’t. Big stain on the hangar floor under left wing root area. So I am now mid fix – I have the left outer wing panel removed, the bolt on web from the butt rib removed and am ready to pull the offending tank. Everything necessary is removed/unbloted, etc. I have read pages 79-82 of “The Blue Book” about 20 times. I think I have a grip on the next move with the innertube, but just wondered if there is any new miracle removal method or cautions that I may need to know. Don’t want to damage the tank as I imagine they are made of “unobtanium.” I would certainly appreciate any additional direction that you may be able to give. Thanks 1,000,000!!!! — Terry Straker
Terry,
It sounds like you have done your homework. About all I can add to the excellent instructions in the “Book” are that you might luck out and just be able to slide the tank out manually. Try spraying some silicone spray or WD-40 on the felt in the rib cutouts to “grease” the process of removing the tank. If the tank is bulged from hard landings or whatever, apply suction to partially collapse the tank — be careful! Before you remove the vent fitting, tie a rope around it and with a helper pushing on the other end, pull on the rope. If the tank slides out, great. If it doesn’t, it’s time for the inner tube. When you get the tank out, in the 80 octane days the leak would be pretty obvious by the red fuel stains. Since you have a 100 octane engine now you may have to apply a little pressure and use soap bubbles. I mean “little”, like blow up a rubber glove and clamp it with rubber bands to the tank outlet. The tank is made of 5052-0. (it was called 52SO in 1946) Before welding, purge with quantities of water, then fill with an inert gas while welding. Instead of chromating the tank, I like to apply a sloshing compound to all the welds. ( 3M EC776 or some of the stuff they sell for old cars, Fuller made a sloshing compound for floats that also worked on fuel tanks) I hesitate to slosh the entire tank, if ever necessary to repeat this job, it might be me that has to do it! With the ingredients of 100LL these days, I also do not recommend sloshing the interior of the tank. Good luck! — Jim
ON THE GC-1A FUEL SYSTEM… (010100)
Subject: Re: GC-1A fuel system
From: Roy Cook <RCook63133@aol.com>
Today was the first flight for me,i noticed the fuel valve looked like it had odd wording, I don’t have a fight manual, have it orded tho. anything u tell me would be of great help.
Roy,
First of all, congratulations on buying N80745. You will find the GC-1A is a much maligned airplane, but if operated within its limitations, it is just fine. There are several people that like the GC-1A better than anything else. (Note, I am cc’ing this to Pete King) The manual you will get from Swift will not be of help as far as your early 2 fuel pump system goes. The early GC-1A’s had a parallel system with two lines from the selector to separate fuel pumps on the engine, then “T”ed at the carburetor. If everything is working, fine, but the lower pump is no longer available, rebuild kits can be obtained, but for a long term solution I might suggest an electric pump. I can give further details if needed. — Jim Montague
FUEL SELECTOR VALVE FOR AUX TANK… (030200)
Subj: fuel selector valve
From: Marvin Homsley <marvin@accesstoledo.com>
Jim, I was considering building a baggage compartment aux tank and got to looking at the fuel system plumbing. Right now the fuel selector valve has and extra port that is plugged. If this is another selector position, is it for another tank or what. It would sure be nice if I could just plumb my new aux tank right into the existing fuel selector valve. Marvin Homsley N80740
Marv,
Has there ever been a baggage compartment aux. tank installed in your Swift? It sounds like you have a Temco fuel selector for the aux. tank installed. Or, if it says “emer” it is a GC-1A selector, meant for two engine driven fuel pumps. Item 112. on the original type certificate is a baggage compartment aux. tank. You can look at the type certificate on the Swift Home Page. It calls out the drawing number etc. You should call Joe at Swift Parts and see what’s available. — Jim
FINDING A LEAK… (030200)
Subject: Fuel Suction Leak
From: “Ed A. Lloyd” <edlloydaustin@juno.com>
Jim, Recall our talking about an air leak on the suction side of the engine driven pump being hard to find? Well I may have just stumbled into a suction leak on 56K by accident. I had made up my mind to replace the fuel pump on the engine. When I put a set of wrenches on the fittings to remove the input / output lines, they were both loose. The line to the carb (pressure) wasn’t as loose as the suction line was. After removing the suction line, I tightened the AN adapter fitting in the pump body two full turns before it was tight. Additionally, I removed the fuel shutoff valve to inspect why it was seeping fuel. What I found was the Bottom screw / plug that holds the spring against the tapered valve body had no copper washer on it to seal the joint. Fuel lubed the valve, installed the proper washer and put back together. Soooo, I’m going to button everything back together and see if it makes a difference. I’ve gotten all the preventive maintenance done I started out to do and am in the process of re-assembling 56K now. Cheers….Ed
TANKS FOR THE ADVICE GUYS… (030500)
Subject: Re: fuel tanks
From: Lee Davis <N80730@aol.com>
I am working on pulling fuel tanks ou of my Swift .. are there any tricks for getting them out and do I have to unscrew the filler neck on the L/H tank — Lee D.
Lee,
Don’t you have the blue “Maintenance and Operation” book the Assn. put out about 1987? It covers the removal of the tanks quite well. There are a lot of tricks! Yes, you’ve gotta remove the filler neck. If you don’t have that book, get it. — Jim
Lee,
Defuel, with the wing off, remove the false rib, disconnect the vent line, disconnect the fuel transfer line in the belly, then with one pushing and someone pulling, it should move. If it doesn’t, try using a small vacuum on the fuel transfer nipple while pushing. BE CAREFUL BECAUSE YOU CAN COLLAPSE THE TANK WITH THE VACUUM. Monty will have to coach you through the tank with the filler fitting. — Ed Lloyd
BOB AND JIM DISCUSS SB25 AND FUEL GAGE ACCURACY… (050100)
From: Bob Runge ejectr@javanet.com
Jim: While perusing my books re: the Swift I studied in higher detail than normal the above SB. I knew I complied with SB# 25 because I checked it before. The only difference between my vent set up and the SB is that my vent line vents out the bottom of my aircraft and not the top. The routing of the vent line takes it along the left inside of the fuselage to the top of the fuselage, where it curls back down the same side to the bottom of the belly and exits in the middle, all one piece of line. The end protrudes straight out the belly skin (no hook or curled part) and is cut what appears to be parallel with the belly or ground. All the rest of the plumbing is according to the SB. Is this OK?
Bob,
Simple answer, NOPE! I don”t know how you can say you complied with s/b #25, that doesn’t sound anything like it. In S/B #25 the vent lines come forward from the tank fittings (3/8″ lines), forward thru the spar web, then down thru the wheelwells, and “T”ing with the trap vent and another 3/8” line that goes up the left side of the cockpit to a forward facing opening behind the cabin.
Jim, You misunderstood. My vent plumbing does all that. Where it comes together at the “T”, the 3/8″ inch line goes up to the top of the fuselage, but instead of exiting, it goes back down the same side and exits the bottom.
Bob,
I understand that ok. The service bulletin calls for the vent to the atmosphere to be that forward facing hook aft of the cabin on the top of the fuselage. My airplane is s/n 3731 and was made that way in 1950. You might not be able to see it in .jpg pictures, but believe me, it’s there. Your setup with the vent line going up high in the fuselage and then down to exit on the bottom is probably safe enough from a fuel delivery standpoint, but I wonder how accurate your gas gauge is? The latest systems, (like mine) read very accurately. Service Bulletin compliance is not mandatory. I had several early vent systems in some Swifts, and the gas gauge always read “0” after a half hour of flight. I just lived with that, but it is nice to have an accurate fuel indication.
Jim, So far I seem to have good fuel gauge accuracy in the amount of time I’ve owned and flown the aircraft. Where could I get one of those vent “hooks” if I want to exit the 3/8″ vent line out the top as per the SB?
Bob,
You need a tubing bender and a little 3/8″ tubing and it is very simple to make. Measure another airplane to determine where to put the hole in the skin. Measure a late s/n, like 3600 — 3700 or thereabouts, they had the vent system like that from the factory. If your gas gauge reads correctly, it may be just as good or better than the factory setup. Having the vent out the belly might have some advantages over having it located on the top skin. BUT – it’s not the approved method and you are “experimental”. If it works — great — but it is not in accord with approved data. You can tie into the existing vent line anywhere below the skin using a short piece of hose and a couple of clamps.
Jim: Understood…. I will be changing the exit location to conform to the SB. I got to tell you Jim, when I find stuff like this….. I really have to wonder why ALL the other previous owners didn’t care enough to do this stuff. Thanks once again for your help.
Bob,
Well, like I said, it may be as good as, or better than the Temco setup. But it’s not proven. The vent on the belly may have some advantage over the vent on the upper skin. (Less likely to get rainwater into the fuel system etc.) I suppose someone may have thought about it and decided that was a better way to do it. Whether they are right or not I couldn’t say. The fact remains there is no approved data to do it that way. — Jim
BUBBLE CANOPY FUEL VENT ROUTINGS... (050200)
From: Jim Montague <Monty747@aol.com>
Denis,
After the recent discussion of Bob Runge’s fuel vent, several bubble canopy equipped Swift owners wrote me, “my Swift has a vent system like that!” Well, I never had a bubble canopy, and quite frankly, never thought about that. Obviously, with the canopy slid back, the fuel vent would interfere, so Jack Nagel relocated it like Bob’s airplane has it. I don’t know if that issue is addressed specifically in the STC, but the airplane was flight tested and satisfied the feds for the granting of the STC. I don’t know how accurately the gas gauge reads with that vent setup, but Bob said his system apparently reads ok. Maybe other bubble canopy owners will comment. — Jim
MORE ON THE FUEL VENT ISSUE… (050200)
Subj: Vent Lines
From: Larry Simms <larrys@abs.net>
Jim, Was reading the discussion on Swift fuel vent lines. I had a GC1A and converted it to a GC1B by installing a C-145 engine. I remember seeing several different configurations of the vents and listening to the stores of erratic fuel gages. Mine always indicated correctly and I don’t fix things that are not broke. My Swift had two vent exits, on the top and bottom of the airplane. The top one was just aft of the “shelf” behind the cockpit. On my airplane the top hook faced aft. At one time that hook got filled with mud by some industrious wasp. I didn’t notice it during my preflight and took off with a full tank of fuel. The airport operator saw me leave trailing a cloud of fuel from the bottom vent and tried to contact me but I had turned off my radio and didn’t get his message. After about 20 minutes of flying I returned to the airport and was met by the FBO. There was about 3 gal. of fuel remaining in the tank when I landed, however, the fuel gage had indicated full all of the time that I was in the air. We concluded that the vent line that originates at the top of the fuel gage standpipe will see a negative pressure (vacuum) when the top vent is plugged. Once the siphon started the fuel gage float remained at the top of the standpipe regardless of the amount of fuel remaining in the tank and indicated full. I fitted all of the vent line exits with fine mesh screens. This airplane also had a vent adjacent to the left fuel tank on the top of the wing. This happened in 1959 at the New Smyrna Beach airport, Florida, and was reported to the FAA. Thought I would send this to you in case it is applicable to any of the Swift fuel vent systems now out there. I don’t recall the serial number of my Swift but the wing number was N90305. Sincerely, Larry Simms
Larry,
N90305 is s/n 319. I used to own s/n 335 which had the same vent system. The fuel gauge was not too bad, but when going cross country, with the tanks stuffed “full” it was necessary to fly right wing high until a couple of gallons burned off to avoid siphoning out the right vent. I never did get around to correcting that! — Jim
IN SOME CASES THE “RIGHT WAY” IS NOT THE BEST WAY??? (050200)
Subj: Fuel vent route
From: Larry Owen <T081763@sphn.com>
One of the side effects of having the vent line done “the right way” is often found out here in West Texas. If you top off your tanks on a warm day, you may find it bubbling out over your aft section as it heats up and expands. Paint and lettering will not stand up to that for long and it will really mess up a good bare metal polish job. My wife Deb always complained that she could smell gas until I stopped filling the tanks to the brim. Bob may have a “hot weather” Swift setup. Just my 1 ½ cents. — Larry Owen N78287
FUEL VENT COMMENTS… (050300)
From: Terry Straker <TASGuitar@aol.com>
Subject: Re: May #2 GTS Internet Update and vent lines
Since Jim asked for comments, here is my 2 cents worth on vents. My Swift- N31W SN 408-used to have the vent out the top of the right wing and another atop the fuselage behind the baggage bulkhead facing forward. Worked fine for fuel delivery, but poor for gauge accuracy. Nagle did a canopy on it about 11 years ago, and left the right wing vent. The fuselage vent was run from the top of the fuselage down the passenger side to the belly and out the bottom. Still delivered fuel fine, and it was always very easy to tell when it was full as fuel impressively spouted out the right wing vent during taxi after a fill up.
Now I have the vents running outboard from the tanks and around the centersection spar ends (no holes drilled thru the spar web!) down the front of the spar to the “tee” that Joe sells that joins the standpipe, etc. It then runs down the pilot sidewall, up over the top, down the passenger sidewall and out the belly as before. Dry wings and a fuel gauge that is VERY accurate. Never any siphoning or problems of any sort. I still log every gallon of fuel and the tack time in a notebook at each fillup and check against my known fuel burn, but it has always been right on the money as to fuel quantity. The setup on my Swift could not work better unless the fuel was free. — Terry Straker
HE READ THE BLUE BOOK. NOW WANTS MONTY’S ADVICE… (050400)
Subject: Left Fuel Tank Leak
From: Bob Runge <ejectr@javanet.com>
Jim, It appears I have a leak in my left tank. I got a pretty steady drip off the trailing edge inboard of the flap. Is the procedure in the book a good one to follow and pretty thorough? Is there anything not mentioned there that I should be aware of?
Bob,
As I recall, the procedure in the blue book is pretty good. I will read it (again) later today and write you if I can add anything. — Jim
IS THAT AN ORIGINAL SWIFT PART??? (070400)
Subj: Gascolator
From: Porter Houston <phouston@erols.com>
Monty, Do you know of a source for the Gascolator gaskets? — Porter
Porter,
Not exactly, but the screen is the same physical size as some Cessna airplanes, so maybe the gasket is the same too. Do you have an aircraft parts seller locally? I see Aircraft Spruce has 3/32″ x 2 1/8″ replacement gaskets for 30 cents each. — Jim
“CALL SWIFT PARTS FIRST”: SWIFT PARTS HAS THE GASKETS… (070500)
Subj: Re: Gascolator
From: Porter Houston <phouston@erols.com>
Monty,
FYI. A local IA and myself determined the Gascolator gasket is the same as used on a Beech Travelair model 95. part #33-199-6. It’s 2 1/4″ dia. The gasket supplied by Swift is this Gasket. — Porter
FUEL VENT MODIFICATION QUESTION… (070500)
Subj: Fuel Vent Mod, Info Ltr #16
From: Stephen James Martin <stevmart@pottsville.infi.net>
A friend of mine who is restoring a “46” wanted to know if you can fill in some blank spots in the Info Ltr #16 concerning rerouting the fuel vent line. 1) What are the dimensions of the doubler where the vent passes through the spar? 2) What is the gauge (thickness) and composition of the doubler? 3) Any opinions on performing this modification? Thanks for your time, I’ll be sure to pass on any information you may be able to provide. — Steve N2622K
Steve,
I presume you mean SB #25, which is the latest bulletin on the fuel vent system. The doubler is .040 2024 Alclad, about 2″ x 2″. Most guys, instead of drilling a hole in the spar web just run a loop of 3/8″ aluminum tubing from the top of the tank, around the end of the centersection between the wing attach fittings and inboard down the front of the spar. — Jim
DRIP, DRIP, DRIP… (110300)
Subj: Fuel cut-off
From: Marvin Homsley <marvin@accesstoledo.com>
Jim, There is a minor fuel system mod I would like to do and would appreciate your advice. At my last annual I needed to pull the main fuel filter to check it out. I found out that simply selecting “OFF” with the fuel selector does not cut off fuel to the fuel filter. I had to drain the entire contents of the fuel tanks before I could work on that filter. I know there is a way to re-route the fuel lines so that the fuel selector really does cut off the fuel to that filter. I will really save me a lot of trouble in future annuals to do this. I just need some expert advice on how to route the lines. I am prepared with a brand new tubing bender and fittings. Thanks. Marvin Homsley N80740
Marvin,
Well, you understand what you want to do. Perhaps you want to make a sketch of the desired routing before you start. You want the shut off before the gasculator so the screen can be removed without losing the entire contents of the fuel tanks. The routing would be – tank – shut off – gasculator – carburetor. — Jim
SOUNDS LIKE A GOOD IDEA BUT…(110500)
From: Marvin Homsley <marvin@accesstoledo.com>
Jim, I have been under my Swift for a few hours today. Mostly spent in deep thought instead of real wrench twisting work. I was going to re-route my fuel lines so the fuel selector would turn off the fuel prior to the gascolator. I may have a much easier way of doing this. The whole reason I wanted this modification was so I could remove the gascolator at annual without having to drain the wing tanks first. Instead of re-routing all the lines, why not just put a manual shut-off valve in the line that goes from the sump to the gascolator. That valve would only be used once a year and left on all the rest of the time. I am installing a new fuel selector valve at the same time. The old valve was not as hard to remove as I had anticipated. I work slow but careful. Marvin Homsley N80740 >>
Marvin,
That would work, but would be a built in booby trap. The FAR’s (CAR’s in 1946) direct the routing to be tank – on/off valve – gasculator – engine. By rerouting to that configuration you are correcting something that Globe evidently slipped by the CAA. A non-standard extra valve in there leaves the possibility of inadvertent shut off and flow restriction. You could call it a “maintenance valve” and safety it securely. Be sure it flows as freely as a 3/8″ fuel line. If you do something like that without paperwork you may confuse subsequent owners of the airplane and cause an incident years in the future. After all, we are just caretakers of these birds, now in their first 54 years! — Jim
AT LEAST HE TRIED SWIFT PARTS FIRST! (120100)
Subj: Old style fuel drain
From: Paul Nyenhuis <pan@cftinet.com>
I am putting Warren White’s Swift back together. I am looking for the old Kohler drain valve that was in the sump and gasolater. I checked with Swift Parts and Univair no dice. What I am trying to retain is being able to drain the gasolator from the firewall. I’ m familiar the other types available but need the blade on the valve which was turned activate the drain to work in the existing configuration. I will replace the “o” ring if I can find a serviceable old type. These were also used in the Stinson tanks and gasolator drain. Do you have any ideas? Thanks, Paul Nyenhuis
Paul, I would think a Curtis drain valve or any 1/8″ NPT valve would work. I seem to remember replacing an “O” ring on the drain valve on my own airplane at the last annual. Yeah, if you want to have the ability to use the original type of operation from the firewall you are pretty much confined to using the original valve, so you need to find a replacement “O” ring. — Jim
LEAKING FUEL CAP…(010101)
From: Steve Roth <Swift97B@aol.com>
My fuel cap is in two pieces, riveted together — one is the main piece that screws into the fuel tank and other piece is a “disc” which has the fuel info printed on it. I got the new disc at Athens this past year — figured it would look nice having new printing on it. I have been plagued by a fuel leak around the cap. Initially, I thought it was the cap gasket. But not so. So, I believe it is leaking around the rivet which holds the chain and disc to the fuel cap. Anybody have any suggestions on what to do? I have thought of installing a new rivet using fuel tank sealer when I install it. Would epoxy work? What kind is fuel proof? Is there any other easily-obtainable sealer I could use? Fuel tank slosh sealer comes in big containers. I only need a thimble full. Thanks, Steve Roth
Steve: I believe if you shoot a new rivet in there, it will not leak. A rivet swells so tightly in the hole it should eliminate that problem. A little epoxy on the rivet should not be necessary but epoxy will not react with gasoline. If the hole for the rivet is not clean use the next size rivet. — Jim
MARV IS GONNA DO HIS VENTS…(010101)
Subj: vent system
From: Marvin Homsley <marvin@accesstoledo.com>
Jim, I have a chance to get my plane in a nice heated hangar for a few days. There is a project that I am considering during that time. I have the drawing of the latest fuel vent system from the association. I have read about it in your maintenance tips book. But I have a couple of questions about the procedure. Of course I need to pull the wings, I can probably handle that. My main concern is having space to work on the vent lines once the wings are off. Is there enough space to get to the existing vent lines without pulling the fuel tanks. I do not want to drill any holes in the spar but some of your info says you can route the lines so this is not necessary. I really like one place in the maintenance tips where the procedure is summed up very briefly. It says, to just run a line from each wing tank to the center of the plane, join them together, then run it up and out the roof. I like that kind of directions. Right now I still have the old style vent coming up out of my right wing. It spills gas and is taking the paint off the wing. Any tips are greatly appreciated. Marvin Homsley N80740
Marvin,
The service bulletin is #25. Read the service bulletin. To briefly recap – pull the wings. Install an AN822-6D elbow at the top of each tank. (or you can cap off the extra 3/8″ AN flare leg of the “T” fitting.) Changing the fitting with the tank installed in the centersection may not be easy! Run a 3/8″ line outboard around the attach fittings and then down to the cockpit just forward of the spar. “T” it near the LH sidewall and run a 3/8″ line up behind the cockpit, aiming the vent facing forward. This sums it up pretty quickly. I just did this job on s/n 199 so I know it can be done! — Jim
WHY DID THIS ENGINE FAIL??? (020501)
From: “Bradberry, John” <JBradberry@grocerysupply.com>
Subject: GC-1B N80951
Remember the fatal crash of Swift GC1-B N80951 in Texas on December 18, 1999? If this has been in the newsletter, I’ve missed it and therefore disregard. I understand the “unofficial” (un-published) cause of that crash was due to the automotive fuel pump which was an approved installation. Seems some check valve components that float around in there are just the right size and shape to get lodged (and did) and cause a blockage when the pump is installed with an AN fitting. No problem when the pump is installed with an automotive fitting . . . just an AN fitting. This was the second fatal crash due to this problem. Further, I’m told the FAA doesn’t quite know what to do about it. ????? I suppose if someone wants more information, they might try contacting the NTSB facility in Dallas. Just thought I’d pass this along. — John
John,
I don’t know. The Facet (Piper 481-666 or later replacement) fuel pumps have 2 ea. 1/8″ pipe tapped holes for AN fittings. The Swift association had a special version with 1/4″ pipe holes. Neither of these should present any problem. N80951 had a Franklin engine, I don’t know if that installation requires a different electric fuel pump. Even new airplanes from the factory have a placard on their Facet fuel pumps, “For Automotive Use Only”. I think that is strictly for the lawyers. I subscribe to an Aviation Maintenance magazine. One month, a mechanic wrote in, “In doing an annual inspection, I found this Facet fuel pump placarded “For Automotive use only”. I thought, You dumb _____ they’re all like that. The next month there were several letters and an editorial comment saying, “They’re all like that”. If a fuel pump has anything other than a pipe thread for the fuel line fittings I certainly would not use it. — Jim
We also asked Steve Wilson <SteveWlson@aol.com> NTSB retired, his opinion on this matter…
Hi Guys… N80951 was converted by Don Short of Stillwater, OK, sometime in the late 80’s or early 90’s. He and his son flew it off a dirt strip near Don’s home. I own the original cowling from that airplane. I may use it or part of it on N3876K. The airplane was purchased just prior to the accident (maybe a few weeks or so) I did not know the guy who purchased the airplane from Don; do not know his experience level in a Swift, etc. I have not talked to Don about the airplane since the accident. As to the allegations of fuel pump problems, that certainly could be true. The airplane had a 220 Franklin conversion and was normally aspirated. Personally I do not know of any fuel pump problems peculiar to the Franklin engines. I have never heard of the automotive Vs AN hardware configuration. Someone more familiar with them will have to address that issue. I know that the 125/145 hp Swifts go from 3/8″ into the fuel pump to 1/4″ from pump to carb and many have automotive fittings in the 1/4″ section, but that is the way they came from the factory. So what’s new? Anyway, I do know that “some” Lycoming fuel pumps did/do have a poppet valve problem, but to be truthful, I never got too interested because I usually have little to do with them and figured if it were serious enough to make it to an AD, I would deal with it when it came my way. Of interest, I did call the FTW NTSB and asked if they needed any help on the accident at the time, but they seemed to have it under control. I will give them another call on Monday and see what I can uncover. If I find anything interesting, I will get back to you. I know that the accident report has not been made public yet. So, just the fact that it is that old, might indicate some complications. We’ll see… SW
(EDITOR SAYS… The flight instructor in me wants to say that fuel pump failures do NOT cause fatal airplane crashes. Pilots do…)
A LITTLE BACKGROUND BY JIM ON FUEL PUMPS…(020501)
A little background on the electric fuel pumps used on the 125/145/150 hp Swifts. To my knowledge, they were originally made by Bendix and used first on the 1963 Piper Cherokees. (the Apache used a similar pump a few years earlier) The Piper part number was 181-666. The inlet and outlet were tapped for a 1/8″ pipe thread. The fitting used was an AN816 nipple with a 1/8 pipe thread and an AN6 flare or an AN822 elbow with a 1/8 pipe x AN6 flare. Any observer would note that the fuel passage through a 1/8″ pipe fitting is pretty small. On the Piper, there were parallel fuel lines for the electric pump and the engine driven fuel pump to the carburetor. When the pump was adapted to the Swift the two pumps were in series, so the total fuel flow had to go thru the electric pump. Not the best idea, but it has never seemed to be a problem. Note the FAA requires 3/8″ fuel lines and AN6 hardware on 125 hp installations. The 1/8 pipe fittings, also used on the engine driven fuel pump, present a significant restriction. Again, this has NOT been a problem. As I mentioned previously, there were Facet pumps available with 1/4″ pipe threads for the inlet and outlet at one time. The fuel pressure required for the O-300 is 6 psi. maximum and .4 psi minimum. Many guys get nervous when the fuel pressure gets down to one pound, but this is double the minimum. — Jim
STEVE WILSON HAS MORE ON THE FUEL PUMP QUESTION…(020501)
From: Steve Wilson <stevewlson@aol.com>
As I promised, I called the NTSB office in Ft Worth today. As you might figure, the actual cause of the accident will come down as the pilot not maintaining control of the airplane due to his distraction from an engine failure. The reason for the engine failure was indeed fuel starvation due to a faulty mechanical fuel pump. The failure mode was as John described it…. Something loose in the pump that blocked fuel flow. The STC for the electric pump in all the Swifts I am familiar with depends on the integrity of the mechanical pump to work. So…. if you have a blockage or catastrophic failure of the mechanical pump, the electric pump, and for that matter the wobble pump, ain’t gonna hack it. You are in the landing mode! Monty or Charlie might address the high HP conversions. I don’t know about them. I do remember someone at one time (Bill Menefee I think) used check valves to make the system redundant. I personally think the check valves may have a higher incidence of failure than the modes we are talking about in the mechanical pumps… Oh well, just thought I would bring you up do date. Apparently the factual report will be out from the NTSB soon… Cheers, Steve W
GAS DRAIN… (040401)
From:Darrel S. Kester <dskester@worldnet.att.net>
Dear Jim,
Another question if I may. Currently, the gas drain cock protrudes from the belly of the plane. I am told this is a fire hazard – a true fear of mine in aviation. This drain extends down from a glass bulb collector which sets in front of a square metal sump. It seems like the glass collector is not the lowest point in the system but rather the sump. The Fuel System and Fuel Vent System diagram (figure 29) is not too clear. And I have had other try to explain the best way to plumb the drain. Could you describe the best way to accomplish eliminating this fire hazard problem. Thank You , Darrel S. Kester dskester@worldnet.att.net
Darrel
The Swift originally had an aluminum gasculator in the belly, not glass. It did not protrude, or have a drain from it that did, but there was a drain line from the sump that did. Usually a rubber hose is used for that drain line, which should be a minimal fire hazard. To pull the screen in the gasculator, many owners have found to their dismay, that they have to completely drain the tanks because the gasculator is located before the fuel shutoff. Evidently, Globe Aircraft in 1946 snuck one by the CAA. Many Swifts have had this “corrected” and the plumbing has been revised to allow shutting off the fuel and pulling the fuel screen. With a tubing bender and the right AN fittings the job can be done so cleanly that it looks like “factory”. — Jim
MORE GAS DRAIN… (040401)
From:Darrel S. Kester <dskester@worldnet.att.net>
Looking at the sump (and I have to remember because I don’t have the plane close at hand), there was a plug exiting from the rear. I was thinking of placing an AN elbow from this rear fitting and then putting a “push up” drain just short of the skin. I guess I could use a rubber tubing as well to a drain installed on the skin. But the former system might be a little simpler to ferry home.
Darrel
The push up drain would create a fire hazard. If you think about it, a belly landing would cause the valve to open and drain gasoline. Not a good idea. I would suggest the original type drain valve and a rubber hose. — Jim
LEAKY FUEL GAGE, ETC… (060401)
Subj: Leaking Fuel Gauge
From: darladoc@sport.rr.com (Doc Moore)
Hello Monty:
I am a new Swift owner having bought N3817K from Connie Mack, Jim Ball’s widow. I am reading all I can but have more questions than I can find answers for. Would like to ask for your help on some items. The fuel gauge does not work and stays on empty. When I fill the tanks fuel will eventually seep around the gauge bolts causing a strong gas smell in the cockpit. Once fuel is burned down some the seeping goes away as does the smell. The gauge worked once after filling and flying but then has stuck on empty again. This has all occurred in 20 hours of flying. Can I pull the gauge and change a gasket? Make one from scratch or buy one somewhere?? Why would the gauge stick on empty? Bad float? Have not pulled it out to see how its made. Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot and repair? Is new gauge available? Plane has an O360A1A with Altuair cowl. Oil cooler is mounted in front on left side. Cooler is an 8 row, Harrison I think. Engine runs very hot… right at red line here in Louisiana now that its hot. I don’t know what the calibration of the gauge is so am going to heat water to boiling tomorrow and check the calibration. My question is…. whats the best place for the oil cooler and also, is there a formula for inlet air opening vs exhaust air opening? The opening in the bottom of the cowl is not very large so am wondering how to troubleshoot all this in terms of moving air through the cowling and also the oil cooler. The baffling is all in good shape. Got many more questions but won’t deluge you with them all at once. Thank you for your help. Doc Moore, Shreveport, LA
Doc
If the gas guage doesn’t work it is usually related to the vent system. You need SB #25 complied. Consult the service bulletin book and the blue “Maintenance and Operation Information for the Swift” book. The latest version of SB #25 might be available from the Swift Association. Simply put, from the tanks, a 3/8″ vent line runs down thru the wheel wells to the cockpit where it goes back to the aft fuselage and out the upper skin with the “hook” facing forward. There must also be a vent line above and below the gas guage, see the SB diagram. The guage itself can easily be removed. The cork float can be recoated with shellac. If there is leakage at the gasket a little “Fuelube” will take care of that. A lifetime supply of Fuelube can be obtained from Aircraft Spruce or other suppliers for a few bucks. I don’t think there are new guages available or do you need one. For cooling, perhaps the best suggestion I have is to simply use a bigger cowl flap or open it at more of an angle. Usually, the left side mounting of the oil cooler works well, a 4″ duct may be necessary to get enough air thru it, as well as an exit duct. — Jim
CORROSION IN THE FUEL TANKS? (100101)
From: Patricia Barnes-Webb
Hi Monty,
I’ve been getting flecks of what appears to be corrosion showing up in my fuel tester the last few times that I’ve drained fuel for my pre – flight checks. I’m not too sure where I go to on it now, apart from starting the (reputedly) long and painfull process of pulling the fuel tank to see what it is and where its coming from. Do you have any ideas, both on the possible source of the problem,and what the quickest and easiest way might be of dealing with it? All the best, Anton Barnes-Webb
Anton
If it’s aluminum corrosion it usually has the appearance of white flecks floating in the fuel, or flecks on the screens. The little screen at the carburetor should be pulled first and checked and/or cleaned, then the fuel pump screen and the electric fuel pump screen. (if installed) The main screen at the gasculator in the belly can be a little problematic. As plumbed originally all the fuel must be drained before it can be removed. If you haven’t done this for a while perhaps now is the time to do it. The most likely place for corrosion to exist is in the sump in the belly. (it’s called a “trap” in the parts book) If water has been allowed to sit in the main tanks, there may be corrosion at the aft inboard corners. The “trap” can be removed and repaired by welding or they have some new ones at Swift Parts. If the corrosion is from a ferrous part (brown rust) you should be able to determine what and where it came from by checking the same screens. In either case, a complete draining of the fuel system is a good idea. If the corrosion is not severe, after complete draining of the fuel system a gallon of “Alodine” or other aluminum treating acid could possibly be poured in the fuel tank and flushed thoroughly. 3M makes a fuel tank sloshing compound called EC-776 which will stop leaks and plug any corrosion pits that may exist. I hesitate to use it, because it may make future weld repairs difficult and it may react to some fuel additives. I think 3M markets their products in South Africa. Whatever you do, be careful, and make sure your fuel is not contaminated before further flight. — Jim
GETTING YOUR FUEL GAGE TO DISPLAY CORRECT QUANTITY… (1105201)
Subject: Fuel gage reading
From: George McClellan <WWIIPILOT@aol.com>
The fuel gage will read full on the ground and in the air just after the plane has been filled. One hour of flying and the gage reads 1/4. When I land with !/4 showing it will move back up to 3/4 on the ground. I have a Lyc 0-320 and burn 6.5 gph. How do I get the gage to read right in the air? I have had this problem for years but never have flown long legs so was not bothered by it. Thanks for your help George McClellan N655S
George
This is a common problem and I am surprised you have not heard of it before. The problem is in the fuel vent system and is corrected by compliance with SB # 25. Your airplane is a converted GC-1A, s/n 374. I formerly owned s/n 335 and had the same problem. To change the vent system to the later type is a fairly big job and requires the wings to be removed and vent lines to be installed running thru the wheel wells and a single external vent on top of the fuselage with the opening facing forward. I looked in the blue “Maintenance and Operation Information for the Swift” book and I didn’t see anything on this. If you want the gas gauge to read correctly you will have to get SB # 25 done. Vaughn and Scott at SwiftWorks are familiar with SN # 25. — Jim
GEORGE HAS ONE MORE QUESTION… (1105201)
Subj: Re: Fuel gage reading
From: George McClellan <WWIIPILOT@aol.com>
Thanks for the reply. I have a vent that is located on top of the fuselage about two feet aft of the hatch. is this standard or has the vent been modified. It does face forward. How would I be able to tell if the mod you are talking about has been done by looking at it visually? George
George,
It should be about two inches aft of the skin lap aft of the hatch. ( about sta. 90) To see if SB # 25 has been done, look in the wheelweels, there should be a 3/8″ fuel vent line running parallel to the hydraulic lines from behind the gearbox into the fuselage. If you have the vent line above the tank running inboard to the fuselage, you have the earlier vent system. You can see this by removing the aft belly panel. — Jim
…AND BRUCE HAS ONE MORE QUESTION… (1105201)
From: Bruce Ray <swiftfly@hotmail.com>
Jim
One last question on N80644. I have fueling ports on both wings. Both of the fuel caps seem to be seeping just enough fuel to mess up my clean wing. What is recommended for the seal on the caps. Thank you again, Bruce Ray
Bruce,
This is not a common problem. Some fuel caps have actually had a small hole drilled in them to equalize the venting. The only way to stop those from leaking is to shoot a rivet in the hole. Normally, the gasket supplied by Swift Parts prevents leakage. If your fuel caps are drilled make sure the main vent is open. — Jim
FILL’ER UP…(010502)
Subj: Weird Fuel Thing
From: John Cross <crosses@houston.rr.com>
Hi Jim:
I went to fuel up the other day and the plane took 14 gallons, not the 22 gallons I expected. I suspected that there might be a blockage in the vent for the right tank, and spent a few hours checking out the vent system (I have a bubble canopy). Anyway the vent system seemed to function properly. I was wondering if there is some kind of valve inside the tank that might be a problem. I read through the fuel system stuff on the web site, but maybe I missed something. I will go through the blue maintenance book today. The next suspicion is that there could be a blockage in the cross-feed. I certainly have had the opportunity to hone my trouble-shooting skills with the Swift! Now that I have had it for a year, however, I think it is the best airplane a fellow could have. John Cross, N2398B
John
No, there is no valve inside the tank. It sounds like a vent problem. Since it took about half the fuel it should have, the crossover pipe might somehow be blocked but I can’t visualize that happening. I wonder if the vent from the right side tank is blocked. Your s/n is 3698 so you have the late vent system with the 3/8 vent line running from the right tank, through the wheel well and T’ed up with the vent which used to be behind the cockpit, which now is looped to go down thru the belly. Be sure you get this figured out. Maybe you can disconnect a vent line in the cockpit area and determine if the right tank is venting. — Jim
…upon further review…
We are wondering if you may have been trying to fuel too fast. Did you let it sit for a few minutes and come back and try to get more fuel in?
LANDING WITH THE AUX TANK SELECTED…(020202)
Subj: Dumb Fuel Question
From: John Cross <crosses@houston.rr.com>
Jim:
Is there any reason not to land with the 9 gal aux tank selected? I have gone through the stuff at my disposal, and haven’t found an answer.
John
I don’t recall ever reading anything against landing on the aux tank, but don’t think it is a very good idea. If it is full, that means you have been flying with 9 gallons of aft fuel on board for the whole flight and presuming the mains are burned off to a low level, you may have an out-of-limit CG. If the aux has been selected for anything approaching an hour, it may run dry at any time. Not a good idea on short final! Proper procedure would be, takeoff and climb on the mains, enroute cruise at altitude on the aux until dry, then return to the mains for the remainder of the flight and landing. Using the aux with a constant power setting in cruise also gives a good chance to check fuel consumption. You should check your particular aux tank several times over several flights to determine how much useable fuel you get out of it. Don’t just rely on the book figure of 9 gallons. Fuel injected engine operators must remember to burn off enough fuel in the mains to allow space for the return fuel. If they have the big outer wing aux tanks they may have to monitor the fuel guage. If the mains become overfilled and the aux is selected, return fuel may be pumped overboard thru the vent system. — Jim
AUX FUEL TANK OPTIONS…(030402)
Subj: Fuel Tanks
From: John Cross <crosses@houston.rr.com>
Jim:
I have the 9 gallon (actually 7 useable) tank. That plus the mains gives me about 3 1/2 hours with the O-360. What would you recommend to increase fuel capacity? The only reason I am interested is that another hour of fuel would make the Swift much better for the occasional IFR flight. Really, with required fuel reserve, you are limited to about a 250 nm leg. John Cross N2398B
John
Personally, I only have a 2 hour bladder, so I don’t see the need for great quantities of fuel. There are a fair amount of Swifts around with the outer wing aux tanks, with a total capacity of over 50 gallons. There are also a few with a field approved wet wing centersection which also results in over a 50 gallon capacity. There are the Alterair belly tanks which give an additional 9 gallons, so if you used them in conjunction with what you now have, would give you 44 gallons. Year ago, I seem to recall Skip Staub had all the above plus fuel carrying tip tanks for a total of 60 some gallons. There are field approved modified aux tanks like yours which hold up to 16 gallons. Also, there are some field approved outer wing tanks which add 13 gallons. I feel, that to make a “tanker” out of a Swift kind of detracts from the whole character of the airplane. There are Piper and Cessna models out there with factory options for carrying large fuel quantities. I don’t fly IFR, but I can recall several trips to Oshkosh from here (about 250 nm) where it was marginal VFR or VFR on top, I recall flying 100 miles on top and got nervous and turned back to good VFR. I do have the belly tanks now, (extra 9 gal.) — Jim
FUEL GAGE FLOAT…(040102)
Subj: fuel gage float
From: Marv Homsley <marvin@accesstoledo.com>
Jim, I am trying to fix my fuel gage and yes I do have the good vent system. It seems that the cork float is saturated with fuel and sinks. I have the whole fuel gage assembly out of the plane but for the life of me I cannot figure out how to get the cork off the rest of the assembly. I want to re-varnish it so it does not soak up fuel any more. Do you know how to remove the cork and what kind of varnish should I use on it. Varnish is something I have just heard of before, never actually done it. I may be able to get a new cork but it would still need sealing. Thanks Marvin Homsley
Marv
You don’t want to use varnish. Originally the floats were dipped in shellac and allowed to dry thoroughly. Modern day stuff that would work are the sloshing compounds made by 3M (EC776) and Fuller for fuel tanks or floats. I haven’t worked on a fuel gauge in many years, so I can’t give you details for disassembly. — Jim
DICK ARRON’S “TWO CENTS” ON CORK FUEL GAGES…(040202)
From: “Aaron, Richard [AMSTA-AR-CCH-C]” <raaron@pica.army.mil>
Another 2¢. Maybe this will help regarding Marv Homsley’s query about the coating of cork fuel gages. This is from the auto gas STC page on the EAA Website: (typos are as copied) Potential Attack of Varnish on old Cork Fuel Tank Floats Cork floaundred low lead (100LL) aviation gasoline and automobile gasoline may have higher aeromatics than 80 octane aviation gasoline and may attack old varnish. This leads to problems of gasoline absorption by the cork, and particles of varnish getting into the fuel system and possibly plugging metering jets in the carburetor. If your fuel system has been performing satisfactorily with long term use of 100LL aviation gasoline, then it should be satisfactory with no changes using automobile gasoline. Inspect floats and, if indicated, recoat with polyurethane type of varnish. (Use 2-part urethane varnish such as Stits UV-550.) Regards, Dick Aaron
DICK SHARES HIS FUEL GAGE FLOAT EXPERIENCE…(050202)
From: Richard Aaron <raaron@pica.army.mil>
Subject: Fuel Gage Float
Denis,
I thought that I’d relate some recent experience I had with my fuel gage in case it might be of help to someone else. Soon after I acquired 2405B, I tried to remove the fuel gage in order to replace the gasket, but after about an inch of movement it was stuck on something. My first thought was a dent in the riser tube, but an examination of the tube exterior showed nothing. Anyway, about three weeks ago I got more aggressive and by pulling and twisting managed to get the gage out. To my surprise, the bottom plate had the two holes in it both closed with a bolt and nut that were the cause of the interference. I don’t know why anyone would put these there: perhaps they thought that it would minimize sloshing and give a steadier reading. I removed them. While cleaning things up and examining in general, I found that one of the weights in the cork) while not in danger of falling out, was not all that tight either. These are like very thick brass brads and are, I guess, for standardizing cork buoyancy. This wouldn’t have been a problem if they were inserted from the top instead of the bottom. If it did fall out, the gage indication would be higher, so that you would think that there was more fuel than there was. By how much, I dunno. Anyhow, as I was going to recoat the cork with urethane varnish (in case I opt for auto gas) I pulled the weight out and gooped the hole with varnish before replacing it. Also, I polished out some minute nicks on the spiral and guide rods with crocus cloth and Scotch Brite which gave the cork freer movement. Awhile back Marv Homsley asked about a source for cork to replace the float and I just recalled once seeing some wide-mouth glass food storage jars that had large cork stoppers. Last point: even if it’s nice and shiny, don’t trust it 100%. Regards, Dick
FUEL TOTALIZERS…(070102)
From: Steve Roth <Swift97B@aol.com>
Subject: Fuel Totalizers
The Electronics International FP-5 and the JPI unit are both STC’ed for the Swift. Give them a call or check their websites. Electronics International <http://www.buy-ei.com> but I don’t have JPI’s website. All totalizers on the market seem to use the same sensors/transducers. Both units are very accurate. Hope that helps. Steve Roth
AUX TANKS…(080302)
Subj:Fuel Tanks – Again
Date:8/13/02 7:55:21 PM Central Daylight Time
From:crosses@houston.rr.com
Jim
We corresponded about fuel systems a few months ago. As you may or may not recall, I wanted to add about an hour’s worth of range, and two options you mentioned were (1) enlarged aux tank (I have the 9 gallon variety) and (2) belly tanks. I am wondering where I can get more information about these two options. Are there STCs, who to contact, etc. John Cross
N2398B
John
The Temco aux tank, which was original equipment on some late Swifts, is no longer available except used, from salvage etc. If this is what you already have and want to enlarge it, you are on your own but I’m sure someone, somewhere has gotten a field approval and would furnish a copy of their 337. The belly aux tanks are STCed and are available thru Swift Parts. The STC is held by Alterair in CA and their contact information is on the Swift site. — Monty
DR DON COUNSELS AUSTIN ABOUT FUEL TANK LEAKS…(090102)
From: Don Duke <Swifter@compuserve.com>
Subject: Fuel tanks
Austin,
I just read your note on GTS news – and you’re probably well ahead now, but I thought I would mention something. I had to remove my R fuel tank 2 years ago due to leak. Buzz Winslow explained to me that leaks are not unheard of on higher time Swifts (I’ve put 1100hrs on mine in the past several yrs), esp involving the R tank. Why? – he explained that with the tank partially empty, the top vibrates, up and down, and this energy appears to be concentrated at the aft end of the stiffening beads/creases of the metal tank top portion. A crescent shaped area here work hardens, then cracks. The L tank apparently is not as susceptable due to stabilizing effect of the filler neck addition. I know you don’t have a leak but it might be worthwhile to inspect this area closely while you have that tank out, as you’ve likely come to the conclusion at this point that you’d rather not take it out again…. Don Duke N9DB Cincinnati, OH
ROOKIE SWIFTER NEEDS AUX TANK INFO…(NOV 02)
Subj: Outboard Fuel Tanks
From: Wyatt Honomichl <kingair@nvc.net>
Hi Jim: I have a quick question for you about a answer you gave a guy about Wet Wing fuel tanks. I would like to know where you got your outboard/center section fuel tanks. I was just given a -1B swift and i was thinking about putting in a IO-320, and would like a little more range out of this frame. If you have any help on this issue i would appreciate it. If you also know an address and a cost per tank. Thanks again Wyatt Honomichl (Rookie Swifter)
Wyatt
I have the belly tanks installed in my Swift. These are two 4-1/2 gallon tanks that plumb in to add 9 gallons of fuel to the total capacity. Swift Parts in Athens, TN may have them for sale or the manufacturer, ALTURAIR in San Diego may still be in business. Their contact information is on the Swift site. I have no idea of the current cost. There is a field modification to eliminate the aluminum fuel tanks and “wet wing” the center section. This is a major job and would cost thousands of dolllars. Merlyn products of Spokane, WA has produced outer wing aux tanks. They only produce a run of them when they get enough orders. The price, as I recall, was between two and three thousand dollars. Merlyns contact information is on the Swift site. — Jim
AUX TANKS… (JAN 03)
Subj: alturair aux tanks installation
From: Jeff Wimmer (jwimmer@fleetweather.com)
Hi Jim: I’ve been following the discussion of the alturair aux tanks, and am told by Swift Parts that they have some available. My question is about how involved the installation is? As I’ve just had my Swift painted, it would be a shame if they had to peel off the belly skin…..are these just installed thru the removable belly plate, or how much sheet metal work is involved? Sure would be nice to have a little extra fuel capacity with that big engine sucking up the gas, and to NOT lose what little luggage capacity is available. Thanks for any info! Regards, Jeff Wimmer
Jeff
I have the belly tanks in my Swift but I did not install them. There is no change to the selector valve. The aux tanks become a part of the main tanks in effect. No switching tanks etc. The
moment remains approximately the same for weight and balance purposes. You don’t have to remove any skin, they go in thru the aft belly access panel. What is hard is working in the restricted area with little room. Some mechanics are better at this than others. If you or your mechanic are willing to take on such a project, good luck! Remember, it’s been done before and can be done again! — Jim
JUST ONE OF 1000 USES FOR VASELINE… (JAN 03)
Subject: Re: Fule-Proof Lubricant
From: Steve Roth <Swift97B@aol.com>
Are you guys aware of a “grease” which is fuel proof? I have Fuel Lube, but it is a paste and too thick. I need for fuel cap gaskets, etc. Consistency of regular grease preferred. Thanks, Steve >>
Steve
A “safe” lubricant for fuel cap gaskets is plain old vaseline. It is not exactly “fuel proof” but you don’t want something which will not disolve in gasoline. — Jim
MARK’S EXCELLENT FUEL TANK ADVENTURE… (JAN 03)
From: Mark Kadrich <starwizz@pacbell.net>
Subject: Some info on belly tanks.
Hi Jim, I saw in the last newsletter that someone was asking about installing aux belly tanks in their Swift. As I recall, you said they had to enjoy working in tight spaces. Right on! This started with a leak in the pilot side wing tank. I had to remove it to get it repaired. Apparently this is an endemic problem with wing tanks. No sweat. A friend and I had the tank out in a few hours. But, you know how it goes, “well, since I’m in here, I might as well….”. Well, the might as well for me was removing the belly tanks to fix broken seat rails. The only way to get at the rails is to remove the aux tanks. No small endeavor. You must disconnect the rudder and elevator cables, the lines to the flap actuator, and the fuel gauge tube assembly. The fuel gauge tube assembly has a small breather hose at the top that after numerous attempts at removing got cut off. Before the tanks can be removed you must remove the 90′ AN elbow otherwise the tank hangs on the fuselage. Then you have to stick your hands way in the back to remove the tank straps. I highly recommend this order because I removed the straps on the right tank and then had to remove the AN fitting. Not fun. I still have cramps from that operation. From beginning to end it took me 4.5 hours. You just have to be patient but in my case it paid off since I discovered a leaking AN fitting on a vent line. The entire top of one tank was soaked with fuel. I’m going to put them back in next week so I’ll let you know what I learn then. Take care, Mark
BINDING FUEL SELECTOR… (MAR 03)
Subj: Fuel Selector
From: Ed Clegg <edwclg@adelphia.net>
Hi Jim,
It’s been awhile since I have had need of your advice, but alas flying these swifts will always bring us back. My fuel selector is binding. I have the 9 gal aux tank in the fuse. The nut on the bottom of the selector has the # 710-3-1. Would you know who made it, where a new one could be had and if I pulled the nut off would the guts of this be removable so as to free it up. I have used some penetrating oil and it is helping somewhat but not enough. What do you think? Thanks again for all your help. Ed Clegg
Ed
Do you have the Service Bulletins? Read SB #37. I think the valve was made by Imperial. Lubricate with “FuelLube” which is a grease which is insoluable in gasoline. FuelLube is available from Aircraft Spruce and others. — Jim
FUEL SELECTOR SUCCESS… (APRIL 03)
Subj: fuel sel
From: Ed Clegg <edwclg@adelphia.net>
Hi Jim,
Thanks for sending the SB on the fuel valve. I did pull it out, cleaned and lubed it. Works like new. It is a tapered shaft, held under spring tension. No O-rings or any other packing. A marvel of simplicity. Thanks again, Ed
DOC’S BLUE IN THE FACE… (APRIL 03)
Subj: Fuel Gauge
From: Doc Moore <darladoc@sport.rr.com>
Jim:
I’ve worked on my fuel gauge til I’m blue in the face and it still won’t work right. Its sticking at the bottom of its travel. When I fly it unsticks and works okay but not on the ground. I’ve got the vent mod so don’t think that’s an issue. The gauge is actually sticking. Would you know of anyone who has a working unit that would be available? Also, do you know of anyone who has made one of the capacitance type systems work on a Swift? Thanks, Doc
Doc
It sounds like your gauge is worn and sticking. I don’t know who might have one. You might try repairing it with some brass sheet & solder. I’m sure a capacitance type sender could be adapted to work, but I’ll leave it up to some real electronics wizard to tell you how! — Jim
HE AIN’T HEAVY… HE’S MY AUX TANK… (APRIL 03)
Subj: Aux tank
From: Doc Moore <darladoc@sport.rr.com>
Hi Jim:
I’m trying to do my weight and balance and need some help. I removed the factory 9 gallon fuselage aux tank when I installed the wings I bought that have Terry Stewart’s wing aux tanks installed. Would you know the weight of the 9 gallon aux tank that I removed? Nothing in my a/c records give this info. I don’t guess you would happen to know what the 12.4 gallon wing aux tanks weigh would you?? Eric Maya sent me an email telling me he has a drag link for the 3250 tailwheel. Do you know what other parts I need to buy and where they can be bought to install the 8″ pneumatic wheel? I know I need a fork, etc. Can I buy a 3250 from Aircraft Spruce and make it work? From a study of the parts manual it doesn’t appear that I can do that. Spruce shows a Scott Model 3200 but no 3250. Got any thoughts here? Thanks for your help. Doc
Doc
According the Aircraft Spec. (viewable on the Swift site) the aux. tank installation is Item 112. – 14 lbs. at +61. I would guess the wing tanks weigh about the same, maybe a little more but I don’t know that for sure. I think the 3200 tailwheel might work, but I don’t know that for sure either. Maybe you should try calling Scott. Look them up in www.switchboard.com — Jim
STIFF HOSE… (APRIL 03)
Subj: fuel hose connections
From: Austin Smith <swifter78261@hotmail.com>
Dear Mr. Montigue,
Hope you are doing well. I have a quick question. were having quite a bit of trouble putting on the hose connections that connect the fuel tanks to the fuel sump. they are about an inch around – might as well be made out of steel. any words of wisdom to help these slide on a bit easier? thanks for all your help. Swift flying, —Austin Smith
Austin
I have fought those too. There is softer hose available. I have been retired for a long time and forget the Mil spec numbers, but I think you want Mil-H-6000. I think it is 1-1/4″ I.D. hose or Mil-H-6000-20. You can also heat the hose with a heat gun or hair dryer and apply a little Vaseline. If that hose is still too stiff there are softer varieties available. — Jim
INTERESTING USES FOR A FLASHLIGHT LENS…(APRIL 03)
Subj:fuel gage
From:Austin Smith <swifter78261@hotmail.com>
Dear Mr. Montigue,
We have attempted to make progress and find ourselves needing help again. I have checked the archive and they dont mention this small problem. the the seatbelts, over the years, have XXXed the glass on the fuel gage. is there a relativly painless way to replace this?? or do we just have to bite the bullet, dive in, and take it all apart?? your help is always appreciated.swift flying, Austin
Austin
There is nothing to it – just take out the 4 screws that hold the gas guage in, remove it, and replace the glass. A flashlight lens can be found the right size.
Jim
FUEL HOSE STUFF… (APRIL 03)
From: Ron Williamson <rwwilliamson@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: April #4 GTS Internet Update
Denis,
In the fuel hose category – I missed the original question and answer, but I’ve learned from experienced mechanics that the magical way to install most hoses and o-rings is the liberal use of “baby batter.” Of course, you parental types will recognize that as Vaseline which is a petroleum based lightweight grease. It’s soluble in hydraulic fluid and oil so it just helps things slip together and then seals nicely. On the large fuel hoses, it also helps to warm them up so they are more flexible. A heat gun set on low will get them to a temperature that makes them soft without being too hot to handle. Installing fuel hoses isn’t an easy thing if the temperature is below 70 degrees in the hangar. Of course, out here in California it’s never too cold for Swift maintenance 🙂 — Ron
FUEL HOSES… (MAY 03)
From: MarkH85@aol.com
Subject: Re: May #1 GTS Internet Update
On the fuel hoses, I try to use Stratoflex brand H-6000, it seems to be softer and easier to work with than Aeroquip, etc. — Mark
INSTALLATION OF A RIGHT WING FUEL FILLER… (JULY 03)
Subj: Swift Fuel Filler
From: Eric Karolek <lear35capt@comcast.net>
Hi Jim,
Can you point me in the right direction to find out info regarding installation for a right wing fuel filler/port on a GC-1B. I also need info on 337/STC that may apply for this mod. The wing is currently off the aircraft and it was thought this may be the time to do this. Thanks for any light you can shed on the subject. — Eric Karolek
Eric
The new rules for field approvals (8300.10 Chg 16) don’t specifically say that can’t be done, but it may require engineering evaluation. If you know a mechanic with a good working relationship with an FAA inspector he may be able to convince him it is the thing to do. Personally, I don’t believe it would be worth the effort. Do you have SB 25 done? If the vent system is revised per SB #25 the tanks fill reasonably fast. I don’t know of a prior 337 for this mod. — Jim
(Editor says… This one interests me because I don’t believe I have ever seen a Swift with the stock fuel system set up this way. I’m sure it must have been done. In his reply Monty didn’t say that it had been done before. Anybody ever seen one?)
MONTY HAS MORE ON THE RIGHT SIDE FUEL FILLER DEAL… (JULY 03)
I have heard there are several Swifts with the rt. fuel filler but I don’t remember ever seeing one. One thing I might have mentioned, there should be a valve between the tanks for an airplane so equipped. If the tanks are free to gravity flow, filling becomes hard to do, with chasing back from one side to another and it might take longer than the stock setup! Some airplanes you can do this on and the gravity flow is minimal, but the Swift has a 1-1/4″ tube connecting the L & R tanks and it should flow pretty quickly. My procedure with the stock setup is as follows: fuel until the left tank appears near full. Stop. Set the filler nozzle aside. Go out near the left wingtip and give a heave up to extend the left landing gear strut. Go back and finish fueling, it usually takes another few gallons. I have to late vent system and fueling has never been a problem. I also have the belly tanks. Mine are the early ones with only one vent line per tank so if I am more than 28 gallons low I know I might have to raise the tail and “burp” the airplane. As you know, I don’t fly much cross country anymore, but if I did I would be aware that on my next leg I may not have the full 37 gallons on board so I would not plan on needing full fuel unless I was sure the tanks had been completely filled. — Jim
STICKY SITUATION… (OCT 03)
Subj: sticky gas tank
From: Austin Smith <swifter78261@hotmail.com>
Dear Mr. Montague,
In keeping with the hope of flight one day – I have proceeded to begin the removal of the right wing tank for the purpose of fitting that side of the “new” vent system……and its sticking. My grandfather and I had previously removed the left tank (through many months of frustration). the main way we removed it was through use of the filler cap as leverage to pry it out (violent, I know) – the tank escaped without damage and we were able to install the vent for that side. However, the right side does not have the filler cap so I am up the proverbial creek. I have tried everything I have read in the newsletters, blue book etc…: pulling, pushing, pulling and pushing at the same time, I even put a hydraulic lift under the aileron hinge and gave it 1 or two cranks to take some of the pressure out of the wing ribs pushing down on the tank (this turned out to be the lucky break on the other tank for us) – yet nothing. I fret when thinking about two other possible ideas: partially collapsing the tank w/ a vacuum cleaner, or partially unriveting the bottom skin under the tank to gain access to remove the felt that buffers (and holds tightly) the tank. If you can shed any light on my problem I would be most thankful. Swift Flying, —Austin
Austin
Have you tried all the “tricks” mentioned in the blue book? Have you put an old inner tube behind the tank and inflated it? You might try putting a fitting (the one that normally is in there) in the vent opening and putting a rope around it and pulling on that. If the tank is deformed from hard landings it might be necessary to get it a little smaller by plugging the extra openings and using a vacuum cleaner “suck” the tank in a little. Be careful! You can easily suck it in too far. If the tank needs reshaping after you get it out fill it with water and tap on the high spots with a flat hammer. If you remove the AN3 bolts at the rear of the centersection rib attach angles you can pry the skins apart slightly more. Spray a little WD-40 on the rib felt to make the tank slide easier. I have fought with them too — but they always come out! — Jim
FUEL LEAK… (NOV 03)
Subj: Losing Fuel
From: Bob Price <BobPriceSwift@aol.com>
Jim:
I filled up the swift yesterday and flew it to another airport about 45 miles away. During the flight I looked out to the left and noticed fuel siphoning under the cover for the gas cap. 3361K has the round hinged sheet metal cover. I have noticed fuel stains on the surface of the left wing for several months but thought they were from spilling fuel during fueling. When I landed I noticed fuel running from the trailing edge of the left wing for a few minutes… I opened the cover and looked at the cap and it was in place and secure.. I have the cap with a small vent hole in it…. I have read everything in the archives but can not find any answers… Can you offer any suggestions as to what to look for? There is also a gas line at the top of the tank next to the fuel cap. — Bob 3361K >>
Bob
There is a gas line at the top of the tank next to the fuel cap? You must be looking at the vent line fitting. You can remove the circle of screws in the cover plate around the gas cap and check for tightness/leaks at the fitting. If you only have leakage when the tank is full or near full, it is a leak at that fitting or a crack on the top surface of the tank or the little hole in the cap is venting fuel. They drilled that hole in some fuel caps because the early vent system did not work quite right. SB #25 installs the later vent system and is recommended. Try operating at not-quite-full fuel for a while. If no leakage is noted, then you have to determine what is leaking. In a worst case scenario, the tank will have to be pulled and repaired. Read the blue book on tank removal procedures. This is not an easy job for a non-mechanic. — Jim
FUEL LEAK PART II… (NOV 03)
Subj: Losing Fuel
From: Bob Price <BobPriceSwift@aol.com>
Jim:
Thank you for the information.. I inspected the cap and it has two holes. Also the thin gasket on the gas cap is broken in two places. I will try to use a large, thin “O” ring for the cap and block the two holes. Hopefully this will cure the problem. As to SB#25… I do not know if 3361K ever had this installed in the past. Is there a diagram on the web site that I could refer to? I found the note in the SB#25 in regards to closing the previously drilled holes by using rivets. I also noted that the reason for the bulletin was to “prevent siphoning of fuel and to enable the gauge to indicate the correct amount of fuel”. I have the two holes and from what I can tell I am getting the siphoning effect and need to close the holes with rivets as indicated in SB#25. Closing the holes will not cause a fuel starvation problem will it? As I see it the main vent lines extend from each tank and then extend to the main inlet at the top of the fuselage just behind the cockpit. Therefore closing the holes in the cap should not be a problem? Thanks Jim… Bob
Bob
SB #25 is in the Swift Service Bulletins, published for many years, and available from the Swift Parts Co. The quickest way to determine if it has been done is to look in the wheel wells for a 3/8″ vent line running from behind the gear (not visible until it comes thru the rib) parallel with the 1/4″ hydraulic lines. I doubt if 61K has had SB #25 done. The early vent system will work — kind of. The most common complaint is the fuel quantify gauge reads “0” after just a short time, with plenty of fuel actually on board. The Swift Parts Co had those original gaskets for the fuel cap last I knew. Closing those two holes should not cause a fuel starvation problem as long as the rest of the vent system is Ok. — Jim
ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP… (DEC 03)
Subj: Electric Fuel Pump for GC-1B with 145 Cont
From: jackmeyer@comcast.net (JM)
Sir, I just became the caretaker for N2321B. In the spare parts given to me with the plane was a electric fuel pump and the Swift STC to install it. The STC calls for the use of a Piper 481-666 or later replacement fuel pump. The pump that came with the STC is a Facet # 40007 ( or at least that is the number on the box). Two questions if I may. 1. What is the right Facet number, if there is one? 2. Is the installation of a electric pump a good idea in the first place. I have read the comments in your archive on the web site and there is alot of discussion about fittings but not much on whether there is any real improvement in safety using an electric pump over the mech. pump. Again thanks for your time and assistance with my questions. I love this bird and only want to do what is best for her. Jack Meyer jackmeyer@comcast.net
Jack
That pump with the Piper number is available from Piper for $300 and some. The same pump is available (the 40007 I believe) from many sources for about $75.00 I read an Aircraft Mechanics magazine. One month some mechanic wrote in that he had found a Facet Fuel Pump placarded “for automotive use only.” I have seen many NEW airplanes with that same placard on their Facet Fuel Pumps! The next month in the magazine there were several letters from mechanics noting the same thing. Product liability is a fact of life in these United States. I bought my first 481-66 fuel pump from a Piper Dealer in 1969 and paid the full list price of $16.95! I’ll leave the choice up to you! The electric pump is definitely an improvement. If the engine quits due to fuel pump failure all you do is flick a switch and you have fuel pressure. Some guys use the electric pump on all takeoffs and landings, I don’t. I had a Swift with a 150 hp Lycoming and constant speed prop. It turned 2700 rpm on takeoff no matter what, but just didn’t feel as good with the electric pump “on.” I had friends tell me that with the electric pump “on” the airplane was trailing black smoke on takeoff. So the extra fuel pressure was partially sinking the float in the carburetor and making it run rich. I definitely recommend the Facet Fuel Pump. I have one on my 145 hp Swift. I have installed several of those fuel pumps — but not for the last 10 years ago or so, so my memory may be a little vague. It seems to me that if you have a late airplane like yours the pump pretty well bolts right in and no bracket is required. The manufacturer recommends vertical mounting of the pump but the STC calls for mounting the pump on its side so even the original lines from the Aero Supply No. 54609 pump line right up. If you have the earlier Air Corps Type D-2 pump you have to make a mounting plate or bracket and do a little plumbing. The early airplanes have some big lightening holes in the spar web so the mounting is a little more problematical. Study the STC drawings, it is not a hard installation at all but not one I would like to make in an unheated hangar in NH or MN! — Jim
FUEL STRAINER CHECK A MESSY BUSINESS…(APRIL 04)
Subj: Fuel Shut off
From: Eldon Johnston <ERJohnston@aol.com>
Monty,
At annual inspection, we tried to check fuel strainers and when we put the fuel selector valve to the “off” position, there was a continuous stream of fuel leaking through this valve. Are there rebuild kits… or any suggestion? Thanks, Eldon Johnston N78077
Eldon
That is completely normal. If you study the system you will note that the “on – off” valve is downstream of the strainer. The only real way to pull the screen is to drain the airplane of all fuel first. When I was younger I could pull and inspect the screen real quickly and get it back together before losing over a quart of gasoline. I’m too old and decrepit for that now! Some Swifts have been replumbed to place the screen on the other side of the shutoff. With a tubing bender a neat job can be done that looks “like factory”. My guess is that Globe kind of slipped one by the CAA on that one, and it should have been that way in the first place. — Jim
SWIFTRONICS STILL PERKING AFTER 20 YEARS…(AUG 04)
Subj: Swift
From: williambulger@msn.com (William Bulger)
Hi Jim,
I’m in the process of converting my GC-1A to a lB with an 0360. In reinstalling the early Swiftronics fuel flow system in the new flat panel I find a bit of confusion with the wiring. I have a red wire fused for 12v and a black wire which is the ground. The other yellow wire also was fused which is my problem. What does it hook up to and why the in line fuse? I also have to change the old Goodyear brakes. Would an older C-150 Cleveland system work on the Swift? Thanks, Bill B
Bill
I have no idea of the specifics on the Swiftronics wiring. I am cc’ing this to others who may be able to help. No, the Cessna 150 brakes won’t work on the Swift nor are they approved. Some parts may be identical but the axle spacer and torque plate are different. The STC approved kit is 199-48 or 199-48C for chrome discs. — Jim
Bill,
The yellow wire is the “keep alive” for the memory in the Swiftronics RT-100. As this unit predated EEPROM technology (designed and produced around 1983), it needs a few microamps of juice to keep the memory of fuel used between resets. Just hook the yellow wire to the 12V battery terminal on the battery side of the master solenoid or switch. That’s why the wire is separately fused. The battery will self-discharge at a higher rate than the 50 microamp current the keep alive uses. A minimum of 1A fuse is recommended as the lighter ones may fail simply due to vibration. The red wire powers the display electronics and should be connected to the avionics master bus so it can be turned off when the engine is shut down. The display and power for the sensor use about 300 milliamp. The smallest practical fuse size is about 1 amp, but 2 amp or 5 amp will also work, since you are only protecting the aircraft from a short circuit inside the fuel meter. Generally, the electronics will fail “open” which draws zero current, but a fuse is always a good idea. If you need an instruction book, drop me a snail mail address and I’ll send one along. I continue to be amazed that these units are still perking along 20 years after they were produced! Regards, Ron Williamson <rwwilliamson@earthlink.net>
STEVE’S AIRCRAFT HAS REPLACEMENT GASCOLATORS FOR THE SWIFT…(AUG 04)
From: “Leslie Sargent” <l_sargent@msn.com>
Subject: Replacement gascolator available for Swifts
Steve’s Aircraft has gotten FAA approval for his replacement gascolator for the Swifts. I have purchased one but not installed yet. Steve’s Aircraft has gained approval from the FAA to add the Swift to their STC SA01026SE Approved Model List to install a replacement gascolator. The approval is for Steve’s Aircraft model SA3-00-B that directly replaces the original K2250-D-B strainer. Please visit their web page at www.stevesaircraft.com and click on “gascolator” to view this new product. Les Sargent (N90347)
(Editor says… Also added this info to the “Businesses That Support The Swift” section of the GTS Homepage.
FUEL SCREEN…(AUG 04)
Subj: Fuel screen
From: Bob Dopita <radopita@hotmail.com>
Hi Monty,
I am having a heck of a time finding the screen & gaskets for the fuel pump on my O-300. The manufacturer won’t sell to me and the jobbers won’t stock them. It seems as though I read once that the same fuel pump had an automotive application, if so perhaps I could get parts from NAPA. Do you know if the pump had an auto use and if so what use that might have been? Thanks for your time, Bob Dopita
Bob
The fuel pump gasket is p/n AF-6160 and can be obtained from Aero Accessories, Gibsonville, NC (800) 822-3200 Also I believe it might be the same as a pre WW2 Chevrolet and is available from Antique Auto Parts Cellar — but sorry I lost the address — maybe one of our car guys knows. — Jim
