LYCOMING CAMSHAFT LUBRICATION…
From: rchisholm@email.msn.com
Subject: Re: Ney Nozzles
I’m in the middle of overhauling my Lyc 180 and considering installing Ney nozzles to lube the cam lobes & tappets. Any thoughts or advice on this mod? Bob Webster of the KY wing recommended them.
Dick,
Nice to hear from you. I have no first hand knowledge of the Ney nozzles, but having seen premature cam wear on Lycoming engines, I can’t help but think they must be a good deal. As you know, the cam is above the crankshaft on a Lycoming, so it sometimes starts dry, and never does get all the splash lubrication a Continental cam gets. The O-235 in the Cessna 152 and Piper Tomahawk is a nearly bullet-proof engine, which has been known to go 3000 hours. A friend has one which was made in the early ’80’s, as a privately owned airplane it doesn’t get the hours put on it like a flight school. His engine last year, with 1500 hours, was down on power. It took no oil and otherwise ran well. A check, with the valve covers off, revealed a couple of valves which were barely opening, the result of a worn camshaft and cam followers. Lycoming sells an oil additive, LW-_____ (fancy version of STP) which prevents oil runoff from the cam when it sits for awhile. It is marketed primarily for the “H” engines. I have a friend who uses it in an “H” engine with over 1500 hours, which runs like new. It might be cheaper than the nozzles! — Jim
IS THE 180 HP LYCOMING THE BEST ENGINE FOR THE SWIFT??? (11399)
Swifter Dick Marlow writes on the Yahoo Globe Temco Swift Club message board…
As I am still putting my Swift together and not flying I would like to know the experience of other Swifters with 180hp and C/S prop. What has been the top speed and the cruise speed with this engine and prop. Thanks for the information. Dick Marlow <dick@themarlows.com>
To which Dave Carpenter replies…
The performance of a 180 swift can be given in one word…. GREAT!!! There is no way to give speeds unless all the other modifications are known… Swifts are the most modified aircraft on earth… A slick 180 with all of the tricks is very fast… Just ask Bud Brown or Joe Ranson..I have run both of them with my 210 and we still have lively discussions about the outcome… enough to say that a good 180 will run with a 210 Swift… with all of the tricks this means a real cruse speed of about 175 mph at 7500′ Dave Carpenter <dcarpenter@mciworld.com>
RON IS GROWING WEARY OF BEATING THE AIR… (080300)
Subj: 0-360 Lycoming STC
From: Ron Williamson <rwwilliamson@earthlink.net>
Jim, I sorta remember seeing where the Aeronautical Engineering STC for the 0-360-A1A is now owned by the Swift Association. Do you know if there are plans to come up with motor mounts and paper to make it usable? And/or update to a Hartzell prop? How about getting the Swift Assn to be a Hartzell preferred source? I’m growing weary of beating the air with the old style Hartzell on my O-320 as everyone with the newer compact hubs seem to have more speed or efficiency. If we could get the Van’s or Glassair or Lancair price on the C2YL hub that would be superb. Any thoughts? Ron
Ron,
I have heard also that the Swift Association now holds that STC. You will have to talk with them as far as availability of any parts goes. I know they have been trying to get OEM pricing on Lycoming engines and Hartzell props. I don’t know the parts man situation there right now, so I would email Charlie directly at <swiftlychs@aol.com> — Jim
LOTS OF THINGS CAN CAUSE HIGH OIL TEMPS… (080400)
Subj: Hot Oil
From: Jay Prentice <jwpren@aol.com>
Dear Jim: I am back for more help. I have a 0-360 with oil cooler and the oil temp is running (about 5 degrees below redline). The cylinder head temp are OK and the oil pressure is OK. The first thing I did was check the oil temperature bypass valve and temp probe and they seem to work OK. Then I replaced the oil cooler. My Swift oil still runs hot. Also the outside temp has been very hot (in the 100s) on the ground. My plane doesn’t have an oil filter, will adding oil filter with the added qt of oil help? Can you give me any more suggestions to lower oil temp?
JW,
Now I forget, is that an O-360 Lyc? What “N” number airplane and what cowl etc. is installed? Actually, with the temp. over 100, I guess any oil temperature under red line is OK! Give me a few more details, but a quick way to lower oil temp is to open the cowl flap a little. — Jim
HOT OIL TEMPS PART II… (080400)
Subj: hot oil
From: Jay Prentice <JWPREN@aol.com>
Dear Jim: I am back for more help. I have a 0-360 with oil cooler and the oil temp is running (about 5 degrees below redline). The cylinder head temp are OK and the oil pressure is OK. The first thing I did was check the oil temperature bypass valve and temp probe and they seem to work OK. Then I replaced the oil cooler. My swift oil still runs hot. Also the outside temp has been very hot (in the 100s) on the ground. My plane doesn’t have an oil filter, will adding oil filter with the added qt of oil help? Also, the info you requested I have Swift N3745K serial number 1438 and it has a lyc. O-360 A1D. I have ordered an airwolf remote mounted oil filter, and I was told that oil temperature gauges were calibrated with 12 volts and in flight 13 to 16 volts causes the gauge to read high. So, I went on a short flight and shut off the alternator switch and waited of five minutes. The temp stayed at 240. Other advice is to increase the size of the oil cooler and move it from the firewall to the aft baffle. I would appreciate and help so I can fly my plane in July August and September. Jay Prentice
Jay,
Ah yes, N3745K used to be Woody Cockran’s airplane I believe and had a “N” number ending in “WC” at one time. Without looking at your installation, I can only give some general hints. Are the hoses to the oil cooler AN8? AN6 are not big enough. A bigger oil cooler may be necessary. The mounting position is important too – on the rear baffle seems preferred over a firewall mount with an air duct. I mentioned opening the cowl flap. If your cowl flap is not adjustable, an added piece of aluminum can be installed, and at what may not be a streamlined angle, the idea here is to provide more airflow through the cowl. You have already checked for an indication problem, but you might consider a mechanical gauge, at least installed temporarily. The Airwolf filter should help somewhat.
I have had several friends with Lycomings that had similar problems. One guy ended up with two oil coolers installed. The other guy was experimenting with a bigger oil cooler and rerouting his hoses. This is Charlie Hoover, who has an original Swift and also a Thorpe T-18 with the same engine you have. He went thru a period last summer where he had a similar problem with high oil temps. Yes, we do get 90 and 100 degree temperatures in Minnesota! (1.) He replaced the vernatherm, which has an AD note on it. (2.) He rerouted the oil cooler hoses after calling Lycoming. There are several ports in the accessory case and the ones that were being used had identical pressure, so little flow. Lycoming advised which two to use, but you could look at any Piper or Cessna with a O-360 Lycoming. (3.) He replaced the 7 row oil cooler with a 9 row oil cooler. (4.) He installed a 1″ larger duct bringing air to the cooler, I think he has a 5″ diameter duct now. He says the various measures worked and now he can count on no more than 95 degrees C at 100 degrees ambient F. — Jim
THINKING OF CHANGING TO A 180HP LYCOMING…(120500)
Subj: Upgrade to Lycoming 180 HP engine
From: Mike Brown <harbrown@mweb.co.za>
Dear Monty, I’m presently considering my options for upgrading the power plant to a 180 HP Lycoming, to replace the shot 145 Continental in ZS-BCE. Am I correct in assuming that the Swift Museum Foundation holds an STC for this upgrade, or is it Merlyn Products? Any idea of the cost of the STC? Also, I’ll need to replace the prop. I have heard of a 3 blade prop from TopProp – any info on this, or should I go for the usual 2 bladed prop. I’d like to switch to a VP/Constant speed arrangement, any idea if there are 2nd hand props available and where, and of course the cost?! Many thanks for your assistance. Regards, Mike Brown
Mike,
The Swift Association has an STC for the 180 Lycoming, I don’t know what’s available as far as hardware (engine mount etc.) I also don’t know the cost of the paperwork. Merlyn products has STC’s for the Lycoming, Continental and Franklin engines. They have a link off the Swift site with their email address and phone numbers listed. I don’t know if they have any engine mounts in stock right now. I do know they make up a run of engine mounts when they get enough orders. There are several 3 bladed props on Swifts in the US. These are approved on a one-time basis and you would have to talk to someone who has one who has one for information. As far as second hand props go, “buyer beware” if you are buying a used prop. In the US we have a lot of parts for sale in “Trade-A-Plane” but I don’t think I would buy a used prop from thousands of miles away. — Jim
O-360 QUESTION…(020201)
Subj: Lookin’ at a Swift
From: John Cross <jpcross@airmail.net>
Monty:
I am going to have a pre-buy tomorrow in Lancaster TX. This one has a O-360 with 1260 hrs SMOH. I have no experience with these engines. I have heard stories of many, many hours between overhauls. I know you know nothing about the particular engine, but was wondering what your general experience with these engines is. How long do they go? Do they generally require a top before major? etc. John Cross
John,
I presume that is a Lycoming O-360. This is one of the most “bulletproof” engines available and commonly goes 2000 hours or more between overhauls. Seldom will they require a top before overhaul. — Jim
TROUBLESHOOTING ENGINE VIBRATION PROBLEMS…(020301)
From: Jim Kissick <SWIFT328@aol.com>
Subject: application for inclusion
Got introduced to your website by Skip Staub, another 0-360 Swift, former USN pilot and personal friend. Please put me on your distribution list. #78328 is hangared at Airport Manatee (48X) just east of the southern end of Tampa Bay on Florida’s sun- coast. I’ve owned her for about 20 years. Now am having a little trouble with a new vibration which could be my crank counterweight or a problem with my prop. It varies directly in proportion to rpm. Be very glad to get back in the air. Jim Kissick.
Jim,
Although it could be something internal in the engine I would first check out the spinner and prop. Some spinners can be operated with the dome removed, most can’t with a constant speed. If you can run the engine with the dome removed, try it. If you can’t, perhaps the dome can be moved 180 degrees. Having said that, is there someone local who offers prop balancing on the airplane? We have a service based at an airport 40 miles from here and he will come up here if he gets 2 or 3 airplane owners to use his service. I think he gets $150.00, and everyone I have talked to says their engine/prop is smoother afterwards. I think the name of the system he uses is the Helmuth-Chadwick balancing system. If such a system is not available in FL, you may have to remove the prop and send it to a prop shop. If the vibration started suddenly, check that the spinner wasn’t inadvertently installed 180 degrees of from where it was previously. Before removing the prop check the engine compression to make sure it is reasonably even. Do a mag check first to make sure you don’t have a mag or plug problem. How suddenly did the vibration come on? Is there any obvious damage to the prop? Might there be a crack in the spinner or bulkhead? How are your engine mount isolators? Jim, I remember you and N78328 from the “old days” – I’m glad to hear from you. — Jim Montague
Jim Kissick replies…
Hello-o-o-o Monty. Gads, its good to be remembered. The vibrating O-360 seemed to commence (or be noticeable) two or three flights back – not violent – just not ready to lose an engine nor a blade – doesn’t get flow near as much as I’d like. Vibration is about 2per rev and varies in direct proportion to rpm – much more noticeable at lower rpm. As an A&P, first am seeking oil spec. analysis, due tomorrow. If nothing, hopeful its not crank balance, next will look at valve springs. New plugs and mag ck. is a beautiful 50/80. If all cks OK the prop comes off (it’s a twice o’hauled one from a Ft. Lauderdale Co. replacement after the last gear microswitch failed on landing) and goes to the prop shop in Tampa about 35 miles from the airport. Most thankful – Jim Kissick
MYSTERIOUS VIBRATION FOUND WITH DEDICATED TROUBLESHOOTING…(030101)
From: Jim Kissick <SWIFT328@aol.com>
Subject: Agonies of ownership
Engine (O-360) getting rougher for some time. Flight a month ago, really vibrating, returned to field. Decowl, check prop alignment etc. — recowl and testfly — still sick. Send oil for spectroanalysis – “normal”. Drain oil and check magnet (my innovation) in oil pan strainer – clean. Check all valve springs and tensions – fine. Replace oil and run compression check — all between 75 and 80. New plugs less than 20 hours ago. Remove and examine fuel filter — slight residue from recent fuel selector rebuild, otherwise very clean. Pull plug at bottom of carburetor bowl and catch outflow — bingo!! — out comes some black residue and a tiny (1/8″+ o/d) ferrous metal circle missing about 1/4 of its circumf. Carburetor (MA 4-5) removed and sent to shop. When opened, found pump idler lever & bushing assembly (man. item #74, p/n155-568 completely disassembled, no cotter key. The tiny 3/4 circle was the top of the cotter key which, apparently, had held it together. it was far smaller than the size key mandated for the installation. Complete examination revealed NO trace of the legs to the cotter key in the carburetor.
Obviously I’d been flyin with the O360 for about 20 years with the pump idler lever held together by a key that was far smaller than the one which should have been in it, and it finally just wore out. No evidence of the two legs could be turned up anywhere in the carb. Anyhow, it was reassembled with the proper size cotter key and the whole machine put back together. I did taxi it around the long “T” hanger building minus the cowling and did some high speed taxis and power jams on the grass taxiway. Damn, that engine sounds good for the first time in a long, long time. Not only that, it started a lot smoother. To my knowledge the small pin had to be installed before I bought the engine from a retired airline captain in Miami who had it in his living room as a standby for his Lake amphib, then went to a 200hp powerplant. Let you know how it is in the air.
Finally, after working on cowling and camlocks most of the day, got in the air just as the sun was dropping into the Gulf. The old Lyc sounds like it was built by Caterpillar…. again, finally!! Feel free to share if you think it will help, but I’m convinced it is an isolated case. My consensence from all the evidence is that someone before I got the engine was into the carb and when the cotter key was found to be almost impossible to install, went for the much smaller one. Over the years the tiny key finally wore out – or through. It is the semicircular crest of that key that flushed out when I drained the float bowl and pinpointed the area of agony. Think I told you the Lyc came off one of those 5-pass Beech twins (really hot) and was owned by a retired airline Capt. who had it in his living room as a spare for his Lake amphib. — Jim
180HP LYCOMING PROBLEMS…(040501)
From: Jim Montague <Monty747@aol.com>
Subject: 180 Lyc power loss
I had advised Dave Briggs re: his 180 Lycoming in his Glassair. After thinking about it, I thought maybe my advice would be pertinent for us also since there are a fair amount of 180 Lycoming powered Swifts. I reconstructed the emails from Dave and sent them to you. I hope the sequence is not confusing. — Jim
Subj: Lycoming power loss
From: David Briggs <davidgbriggs@yahoo.com>
Jim,
I have a Glasair I FT I built that has a 180 hp Lycoming IO360 B1E with a fixed pitched 68 x 80 wood prop and a Light Speed Ignition replacing one mag.. The engine has 900 hours on the second major, each done at 2000 hours. It seemed healthy at first turning 2400 rpm on initial take off run but after 100 hours or so it would, without warning, be down on power noticeable by the loss of about 50 rpm on takeoff run and climbout however It continued to run smoothly. This would continue for several weeks then without warning full power of 2400 rpm would return again. I checked all the usual possibilities, air and fuel filter, plugs, plug wires, mag and ignition timing, injectors, oil analysis for metal that might indicate cam wear and talked with Terry Bell, a Bendix injection specialist. Plugs seemed to help some but did not solve the problem. The problem continued with no moments of full power the last several months. I measured cam lift by putting a dial indicator directly on the push rods and found all intake lifts to be close to .320 in. and all exhaust to be close to .350 in. Kevin at Bolduc Aviation said this was normal. Compression was a reasonable 70/80. In desperation I finally pulled the #1 jug because the EGT was down 150 degrees and this would enable me to look at three cam lobes and lifters and check the condition of the valves. The cam and lifters looked good but Bolduc had to replace the exhaust valve and grind both seats. The valve springs were a little weak. Before I button it up, do you have any advice? Dave
Dave
I would recommend you replace all the valve springs and the hydraulic units in the lifters. You cannot change the lifter bodies without splitting the case but the hydraulic units can be removed with a hook made out of a piece of safety wire. — Jim
Jim
The #1 intake lifter had practically no oil in it so It is very possible the valve was not openning fully which would explain the power loss. In sum, all valve springs and tappet plungers were replaced and full power was restored. I gained back the 2400 rpm and now get 2420-2440 rpm before liftoff so it can be reported I conservatively gained 60 rpm on takeoff and climbout which I’m guessing should translate to around 8 hp.I appreciate your guidance. Dave
LYCOMING ENGINE/PROP COMBINATIONS…(040601)
Subj: Propellers for various engine options
From: MBrown@cromedica.com
Dear Monty
Some time ago, you provided me with valuable information on different engine options for the Swift. I’m hopefully a little closer to resolving this issue, and now would appreciate information on what props would be applicable. The 2 engines available are: 1. Lycoming 0-360-A2D
2. Lycoming 0-360-A1A Of these, is there any preference (I know you prefer 6 Continental cylinders!), and what would you recommend as suitable props for either of them, i.e do you have the specs? It would obviously be preferable to fit a constant speed prop, as there is an existing CSU for both of these motors, but I assume one could also blank that off and go with a fixed pitch prop. If so, what would those specs be? Many thanks in advance for your assistance. Kind regards, Mike
Mike
I think those are both the same, or very similar engines. The A2D refers to the factory installed accessories. The STC that the Swift Association sells calls for a McCauley 2D34C53-A/74E-0 prop. This is now an old propeller and is seldom used anymore. More commonly used are various Hartzell propellers as used on 180 hp Mooneys, such as the HC-C2YK-1 or 1B. The diameter is usually 74″ A fixed pitch prop is not a good idea. — Jim
WHY FIXED PITCH PROP ON 180HP LYC IS NOT SUCH A GOOD IDEA… (050101)
Subj: Tailwheel ID
From: Dick Aaron <raaron@pica.army.mil>
Jim, I read your comments to Mike Brown regarding Lycoming engine conversions. You said that the use of a fixed pitch prop wasn’t a good idea and I was wondering exactly why this is so. Thanks. Dick
Dick
There are several reasons why a fixed pitch prop is not a good idea. To start with, a 180 Lycoming powered Swift will have a speed range from approximately 60 to 180 mph. (120 mph range) Most fixed pitch airplanes have a speed range of 70 or 80 mph. If the prop is pitched for takeoff, it will be overspeeding at cruise airspeed. Conversely, if it is pitched for cruise, the static rpm will be low and takeoff will be sluggish. A further consideration is, the Lycoming O-360 is a high compression engine and does not like to be “lugged” — high manifold pressure and low rpm. Which is the condition you would have on takeoff with a fixed, high pitch prop. — Jim
180HP LYCOMING MOTOR MOUNT… (100201)
Subj: Various
From: Doc Moore <darladoc@sport.rr.com>
Hi Monty:
Received my new motor mount that I had Kosola in Albany Georgia make for me. They did a beautiful job and charged $1500.00. It seems steep but after looking at 4 used ones I decided it was the way to go. They made it per the STC for the 180 Lycoming that the Association holds so anyone interested will be able to obtain a mount with good paperwork. I think if you see someone interested have them call me as Lorenz Henry at Kosola said he would pay me for referrals. I don’t want the money so I would want to call Henry and tell him to discount the mount. I don’t know if i got the total truth out of him or not but he told me part of the cost was in building the jig. Well… now that he’s got the jig the mount ought to be cheaper. I talked to Bo Mabry and he offered to help but he didn’t know how long it would take him and I didn’t really want him to take time he didn’t have to assist me. Doc Moore
MONTY SAYS IF YOU’RE STARTING FROM SCRATCH GO WITH THE 180… (110201)
Subj: STC for 0-320 Lycoming conversion
From: David & Joyce Crouse <D.E.Crouse@worldnet.att.net>
Good morning Monty:
My name is Joyce and my husband and I are in search of a Swift for restoration. We are very much excited about starting this huge endeavor and are realizing that there is much we need to know about before going any further, but we fell in love with the Swift as soon as we started looking for a restoration project and feel that the Swift is more than worthy for the manpower and resources we have available to do this project and do it right. We have already been in contact with Denis Arbeau and are in the process of joining the Swift Foundation. He referred us to you for more particular mechanical questions. We have looked at a few birds and wanted to get this particular information before continuing, as most of the ones we have checked out have smaller engines. Do you know which manufacturer is used for the conversion of a 0-320 Lycoming into a Swift, who holds the STC and where we might find the STC number? Thank you for your help, Joyce
Joyce and David,
The STC for the O-320 installation was held by: Swift Tech Co. 503 Murray Drive El Cajon, CA 92020. I don’t know if they are actively selling the STC now, or if they have parts available. The STC number is SA2-1007. I would discourage the new installation of a 150 Lycoming for several reasons.
1. It costs almost as much to install as a 180 without the performance.
2. It is an old conversion, using the old straight mounted O-320 and the old Hartzell HC-82XL prop, which has an expensive AD note.
3. A 150 doesn’t perform better than a 145, except the first 500 feet of takeoff roll. If you can find a 150 hp Swift at a good price fine, but I would not build up a new one. Back when there were a considerable numbers of 85 hp Swifts around the 150 made a good conversion for those airplanes. Now there are only about a half dozen GC-1A’s left and they are collectors items and I would not want to see any more of them converted. If you are thinking of converting a 125 Swift to a 150, you would need to change everything forward of the firewall, the engine mount, engine, prop, exhaust, baffling and cowling. To install a 145 Continental you only need to change the engine — much cheaper and easier. The only advantage the 150 has over the 145 is the constant speed prop. If you are determined to do an engine conversion, I would suggest an IO-360 Lycoming or Continental. Those engines provide super performance and are a good investment. — Jim
(Editor says: Since we have both a 145hp Continental and 150hp Lycoming Swift in the family I can agree with Monty about the 150 doing its thing in the first 500 feet of takeoff roll and also I would honestly say initial climb through about 5000 feet density altitude. That’s the advantage the constant speed prop gives you. After that, it is almost an even match. At least in our case…
Since the Swift Museum Foundation owns the STC for the 180hp Lycoming installation, and the mount is being made by to STC specs by Kosloa in Albany, GA, I’d go with the 180 vs the 150 Lyc if I was starting from scratch and had to choose. For more info on the 180hp Lycoming conversion deal check with Louisiana Swifter Doc Moore <darladoc@sport.rr.com>)
MORE ON THE 180HP LYCOMING DEAL… (110201)
Subj: 180 motor mounts
From: Ron Williamson <rwwilliamson@earthlink.net>
Monty,
Saw the pix of the shiny 180 on Denis’ web site. It looks like an old case with the reinforcing rings on the flanges. Couldn’t really get a good look at the mount, but it looks like a dynafocal ring attached to the same tube arrangement that the 150 straight mount uses. Do you know anything about the new mount and what engines are covered by the STC that Swift Assn has? Propeller is always a mystery – do you know if the lightweight Hartzell series are usable on that paperwork? Just making out my Christmas list . . . Ron
Ron
All I know is what you can see in the pics and read in Doc Moore’s note. Note I have cc’ed this to him, you can write him with questions. The Swift Assn STC is for the O-360A1A. Lots of guys have used the newer lightweight Hartzells, a good prop shop or Harzell can come up with supporting data that the FAA will accept for a field approval or one-time STC. Talk to Bill Foscharr <swift@yosemite.net>, he has a late prop on a 150 and he went thru the approval process. — Jim
DOC MOORE WITH 180 LYC STC PROP INFO TO ANSWER RON WILLIAMSON’S QUESTION FROM LAST ISSUE… (110301)
From: “Doc Moore” <darladoc@sport.rr.com>
The association called me about an addendum to the STC concerning using the light Hartzell’s as they don’t have it. It appears that there is approval for this but I did not have the drawing that included the change. I am running one of those props (HC-C2YK-1BF with 7666-4 blades) My prop was manufactured in 1975 and sold to Piper so I assume its off of an Arrow. You can also use a C2YR-1BF hub. The C2YR hub can be used as either model. The only difference is in the 5 countersunk flange holes. Mine was done on a 337 by the former owner. I had mine overhauled while my engine was being done. All the info I’ve learned about my prop was provided by Ed Stanley at Hartzell (937-778-4385) who researched the origin of my hub and blades. My prop was originally installed on my Swift in 1992.There are numerous questions as to whether you can run a mount with the large biscuits on an O-360-A1A or A1D. I’ve been told both yes and no. I think Dorothy Golding’s 180 has large biscuits. This was something I wrestled with when working with Kosola in having the new mount made. We decided that the mount needed to built exactly to the STC drawing so the paperwork would be correct. This resulted in using Lord 7402 isolators that fit a Beech Travel Air. The Association mount calls for a Model 95 dynafocal ring and refers to a Beech part number for the ring. Kosola had the ring bent per this part spec. Ron, if you need copies of any of the paperwork I have to give you some guidance let me know. Tks, Doc
LYCOMING IO-360…(010202)
Subj: IO-360 Installation
From: Karl Johanson <karl.johanson@hs.utc.com>
Jim,
A while back you suggested that I look into an IO-360 instead of an IO-320. I understand that there are one or more Swifts out there with O-320’s (or IO-320’s) with a stock cowling adapted. Do you know of anyone specifically? What are the O or IO 360 version numbers/letters that are STC’d for the Swift? Which model number/letter O-360 and prop combination is SwiftParts now selling as the engine and STC??). Having spoken with a few Swift owners with IO-320s, I think the IO-320/CS prop is not a bad combination for the Swift and is an economical solution with good performance. Long term, an O-360 is no doubt a compelling package!! How can I get a Vert Stab spar reinforcement part fabricated? I guess none are available at SwiftParts. Thanks and regards, Karl N78103
Karl
I don’t know anyone personally with a O-320 in the stock cowl. I think Jon Tuuri has one in N78223. I think the preferred IO-360 is the IO-360A1B6, but I don’t have that information handy, I did some paperwork on one recently but the logs are now back with the owner. The Swift Assn. STC for the 180 Lyc. is SA803SO. The doublers for the vertical fin must be fabricated. This is not as easy as it might appear because they are curved and must be heat treated. If they are fabricated out of 2024-O and formed and then heat treated to 2024-T4, the 600+ degree oven must be big enough to accommodate the doublers. Most rivet heat treating ovens are just a little too small to do this. That has been the hangup with making more of those doublers. — Jim
(Editor says… For Karl and anyone else thinking about the 180hp Lyc STC and installation it may be helpful to contact Doc Moore <darladoc@sport.rr.com> for his thoughts on the matter. He is just finishing up this installation on his Swift.)
SNAP LEMON SELLS LORD MOUNTS… (FEB 03)
From: Snap Lemon <Ricevilian@aol.com>
Subject: newsletter
Shake and rattle problems with lord mounts on the Lycoming 0 360a1a engine. This is an easy fix when using the correct mount for a Swift. Most Swift engine conversions have a close or tight engine cowling and does not like to flop around like a dead fish on start up and shut down of the 4 cyl Lycoming. If you should do some light aerobatics with a tight cowl you will find a terrible slash low behind the spinner. As the mount becomes old and compresses the engine sags in the front and spinner again contacts cowl. There is a very simple cure for this by using the Lord J-7402-6 mount set. This is a set of eight mounts J-8381-1 and four spacers J-7635-1. This mount set was intended for use on aerobatic and pusher installations. It may require field approval on the STC you have that calls for a certian number lord mount. Because this mount uses a steel center you may notice some engine vibration. Last week here in Athens at the Swift Works this mount set was installed on a 200hp Lycoming and the results are as advertised almost no movement of engine on start up or shut down. In this installation the engine was rebuilt and balanced and while running you could hold your hand on the mount and feel no vibration whatsoever. The STC in this conversion did not state a mount number, only lord mount set. There is a noticeable difference when installing these mounts. As you torque the mounting bolts you will notice the mount compresses into a donut shape or it will look like it has a small ring around the center of the rubber. This happens on both the outer and inner mount. On the standard mount the outer compresses and the inner stretches, if not at installation it sure will after 10 or 20 hours of running. Using the standard lord mount the older it gets the more the engine sags. These mounts are only available in the two inch size. Some of the dynafocal mounts are made for a three inch mount. These are only in two inch and are not available in three inch. Now for the best part. this mount set of four mounts Lord number J-7402-6 is available from sellers in Trade a Plane for as little as $208.00 per set. But right now, while supply lasts as a Swift owner you can get as many sets of these mounts as you would like to have for only $50.00 per set. At this price you can afford to have a couple of spare sets. These Lord mounts are old new stock and have been field tested for over a year. Over one hundred sets of these mounts have been sold in the last 18 months and not one unhappy customer. All you have to do is send $50.00 per set. and $8.00 shipping to Myrna Lemon, p.o.box 662. Athens,Tn. 37371. Include your UPS shipping address and she will ship these out to you right away. — Oops, bad timing… We are out of town Feb 15th until Feb28th but any orders received will be shipped by March 2nd. — Snap
